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I have heard pro's and cons for each, but honestly which is the absolute safest route. I still owe 9g's on my 99SVT and don't want to blow the engine(yet). Turbo, S/C or nitrous?
Which one of these can a stock engine handle the best?
Thanks!
1999 CSVT-Black 15.8@89mph
Driver for hire. PM me.
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i would have to say get the streetflight turbo and keep it at 5psi. not only would that me the most reliable, but the most fun too
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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Nitrous would probably be the safest if I had to pick one.
And ive had 1 turbo car, and currently own 2 supercharged vehicles, so dont think im being biased lol.
All 3 are safe though. All 3 can destroy your motor.
1993 SVT Cobra, Vortech blown, 11.1@133MPH Street Driven
2000 SVT Lightning
1998 SVT Contour
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I vote for the fourth choice. Pay the car off first. Seriously. I was as guilty as anyone else in terms of spending more than a little money for mods on a car someone else technically owns, but I've waited until the car was paid off before even considering doing any major mods. Not to be preachy or anything, but unexpected things can happen in life and it would suck to have sunk money into the car that might have been better used to either pay it down or weather a job crisis. BTDT. And if you were/are planning to just go deeper into debt to acquire a power adder, well - no offense, but that's just not smart. But to answer your question, I'd go for the three liter.  I wouldn't even consider the supercharger since it does nothing for low rpms and has issues on it's own. NOS is out as well due to the ongoing expense and hassle of bottle refills, along with the potential for damage unless you opt for a good controller (more $$$). The turbo looks to be the best bolt on choice, but at a cost of more than half the payoff on your car, that's just not a good idea at this time. Of course, this is all my poor personal opinion and could just be a bunch of hogwash. Dan - seriously considering starting on a 3 liter
00 Black Corvette FRC, headers, ram air, etc.
99 Cougar V6, RIP (was loud)
02 CBR954RR, now with full race exhaust
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5psi isnt very much. What kind of horse power increase will that add to the stock rating of 200hp? My car currently runs a 15.6-8, what kind of ET can I expect with the Turbo? I'd hope at least high 13's, right? I just don't see spending 4-5K on a turbo if I won't get huge performance improvements, and 5psi doesn't sound like much.
1999 CSVT-Black 15.8@89mph
Driver for hire. PM me.
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Originally posted by BURNTU2:
5psi isnt very much. What kind of horse power increase will that add to the stock rating of 200hp? My car currently runs a 15.6-8, what kind of ET can I expect with the Turbo? I'd hope at least high 13's, right? I just don't see spending 4-5K on a turbo if I won't get huge performance improvements, and 5psi doesn't sound like much.
wavrdr broke into the 13s on 5psi of boost IIRC
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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Cost of the 3L, unless you do ALL the work yourself, is ridiculous. Unless you're talking turbo 3L I wouldn't even entertain the idea unless my engine was blown anyway. Originally posted by Blorton:
I vote for the fourth choice.
Pay the car off first. Seriously. I was as guilty as anyone else in terms of spending more than a little money for mods on a car someone else technically owns, but I've waited until the car was paid off before even considering doing any major mods.
Not to be preachy or anything, but unexpected things can happen in life and it would suck to have sunk money into the car that might have been better used to either pay it down or weather a job crisis. BTDT. And if you were/are planning to just go deeper into debt to acquire a power adder, well - no offense, but that's just not smart.
But to answer your question, I'd go for the three liter. I wouldn't even consider the supercharger since it does nothing for low rpms and has issues on it's own. NOS is out as well due to the ongoing expense and hassle of bottle refills, along with the potential for damage unless you opt for a good controller (more $$$). The turbo looks to be the best bolt on choice, but at a cost of more than half the payoff on your car, that's just not a good idea at this time.
Of course, this is all my poor personal opinion and could just be a bunch of hogwash.
Dan - seriously considering starting on a 3 liter
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Originally posted by TheGreatOne:
Cost of the 3L, unless you do ALL the work yourself, is ridiculous.
the cost of the 3L with pretty much everything is ridiculous even if you do it yourself!
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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There is no safe Power Adder. Period. YOu get what you get. Your mind-frame has to be somewhere else. A car with any FI/Motor Swap is less reliable. Nitrous, S/C, Turbo, 3.0L or any combo will make the car much more fun, but be aware of what you are getting. Pay the car off and then do the changes. The Turbo with a 3.0L is the way to go if you want the most power.
SVT Parts For Sale!PM Me.
2006 M6 Cyclone Gray GTO
1995 Mazda Protege Commuter Special
93 FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide
I'm A TROLL Now!~
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Originally posted by Russell:
the cost of the 3L with pretty much everything is ridiculous even if you do it yourself!
Define ridicuous please.
I think the $1000-1200 range is quite low for rebuilding a different engine and then swapping it in.
Figure a minimum of 30HP/TQ for $1200 or $40 per HP & TQ
Then try $600 for a quasi dual for 10 HP & 6 TQ or $60 per HP & $100 per TQ.
Also the 3L will perk up the entire power band the full amount where as exhaust mainly gives you top end power.
Outside of a K&N filter, optimizing your own TB, or your Y-pipe the 3L is really the best bang for the buck there is.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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