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#768888 10/12/03 04:44 PM
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junglo Offline OP
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Does a faulty water pump also cause more stress on the engine resulting in the rough Idle when I start the car in the am.

#768889 10/12/03 11:03 PM
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Originally posted by junglo:
If I take to the shop, how much should it cost to replace the water pump. By the way, I have probably driven several hundred KM with the car like this..But no smoke or anything.





It will not be cheap at all.

They have to remove part of the motor to get at, and take off the timing belt and tensior spring,plus they might have to raise the engine slightly. plus you will want new coolant, and why it is off you might as well get new hoses to, because it will be cheaper to do now than later.

I would say $450, give or take $50.

water pump $60
coolant $15
3 hours labor $65 X 3 = $195
timing belt + tensior = $185
hoses about $25

those are pretty close estimates



#768890 10/13/03 02:38 PM
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Quote:

It will not be cheap at all



You are right on that Hitman, but you must be thinking of a sherman tank when replacing a waterpump. On a V6 (this is a V6 right?) all they (you Junglo) have to do is remove the front plastic engine cover, the battery and there you go. With a socket set, and a spackle tool you can change it yourself in about 1 hour.

Just get a new metal impeller waterpump, a new gasket and a little coolant and maybe a thermostat, and a little coolant to fill back up and you'll do great!

Afterwards, for peace of mind, have the coolant system power flushed to remove any bits of broken impeller (if there are any).

When my pump went bad, no fireworks, parts flying off or anything like that. Simply went into the red and no heat. I changed it myself on a colder then hell day and haven't had 1 problem since then.


"Fear is the little death." Muadib.
#768891 10/13/03 05:45 PM
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Just had my waterpump replaced, along with a new belt and thermostat and new coolant. I also had the DMD and serpentine belt installed as well. My local shop's labor rate @$40/hour totaled $270. I had everything already except the thermostat and coolant. Not too bad at all. The temp gauge was reading between the "A" and "L" in NORMAL after "pushing it" up long hills or just idiling awhile. Now after everything was done, it still does this. And now I smell coolant, also. Is this normal for these cars? The reservoir is a bit above "max", but not a whole lot. I don't know what else could be causing this??? Also, is it normal for the DMD to rattle after it's installed? Mine rattles pretty loud. Anyone else have this problem? The CEL did come on about a day or so after this was done. Just a steady on for about a day, then one night home it flashed a few times right in a row w/ no pausing in flashing (like when it's giving a code). Now it's just steady on with no flashing for the last week.

Last edited by rob; 10/13/03 05:56 PM.

02 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE, FULLY LOADED Old car- 99 SE Sport ATX w/ SVT body kit (for sale...asking $4,200 OBO), nicely modded, high-flow exhaust y-pipe back and KKM. 95K, but 95% are interstate highway miles back and forth to college everyday.
#768892 10/14/03 04:07 PM
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junglo Offline OP
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After I added the water to the reservoir. The engine appears to start fine,heat inside the cabin. I can't believe the mechanic where I get my oil changes done claims he tops up fluids...Hopefully water is not leaking out. There must be some sort of sensor that determines the water level of the radiator,that was sending info to computer and was messing up the computer resulting in rough Idle for first minute after starting. Glad to see the car running good again without costing me any repairs.

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