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#65710 07/09/02 08:44 PM
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Elia Offline OP
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My girlfriend has a 96 Contour v6 5 speed 60k and very regularly maintained. She blew her water pump a few months ago (and thanks to the forum, I replaced it just fine). Because she's not very big into cars, she drove probably 20 miles without a working water pump. Although I thought there were no problems and she got lucky, she has lately had a severe loss in hp in the lower range. It seems that once she gets into her power curve, it seems fine, but before that it's VERY sluggish. Probably couldn't beat an old civic off the line smile The dealer said that it was the intake manifold, but she didn't know to ask what about the intake manifold was wrong. she thinks they said something about replacing it. They also want to charge her $580. I told her not to do it, and to let me check here first to see what everyone here thinks. I think it's just possible she needs a tb cleaning. Let me know what you think.
-Elia

#65711 07/09/02 09:02 PM
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A TB cleaning is always a good place to start.


99 CSVT Green/Tan 13,700Km
# 84 of 2760

For Sale
96 Contour GL 2.5 ATX 120,000Km
K&N Air Filter
Mobile 1
E1 SVT Wheels & BFG G-Force Rubber
Aluminum Painted Front Grill
#65712 07/09/02 10:26 PM
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Elia! I've had the same thing happen to just days ago. My opinion is that the engine was damaged by the heat (piston rings, pistons and cylinder) I might be wrong though.

Have you had a compression test on the engine.

I will be getting mine checked any day now.

It is possible that the intake might need overhaul (see intake overhaul in the how to section)

Hope this helps

Regards


Both in April Ford Countour SE
5MTX 1996/27kilo.
I intend to by a set of MSDS headers with some good low rumbling tone like at South County Motor. I having the upper intake extruded &honed. Change TB with SVT.
By a Pro-Flow 75 maf. Diablo chip on Top. IF and only if I'm happy with the results. A Quaifle T/b diff. IF my Girlfriend can still stand my driving (she does not drive) a New Radiator (the one that pushes 11 PSI into the intake manifold) I think that this engine would be proud to put 300hp on the asphalt.
#65713 07/10/02 05:06 PM
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A good cleaning of TB and EGR passages just behind it can do wonders. A new fuel filter is also a good idea. The plugs and wires are about due for change also.


Scott
95 SE-2.5L ATX (120K+ miles & many mods)
#65714 07/10/02 05:42 PM
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Elia Offline OP
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The dealer said that the codes were p1518. Does this really warrent "will have to pull intake off" as the invoice says? Somehow I'm not too sure...
-Elia

#65715 07/10/02 08:42 PM
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sounds like a bad intake manifold runner control actuator to me. happened to me a few months ago. check the cable that runs from the little silver box screwed to the front of your engine to a spring loaded lever under your throtle body. mine snaped so the computer was giving a 1518, secondaries stuck open when in truth they are actually stuck closed. it's worth a look, as it is much cheaper than paying the dealer to remove your intake. do a forum search on IMRC or 1518 for more info as to potential problems.

#65716 07/11/02 02:10 AM
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Elia Offline OP
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Thanks a lot for all your help, everyone. I have one more question - What exactly are secondaries? I did a search on my problem, and a lot of people refer to secondaries, but I can't seem to figure out what they are. Thanks a lot.
-Elia

#65717 07/11/02 02:33 PM
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Secondaries are set of extra, larger, air intake ports that open up at higher engine speeds. (Roughly 3700 RPM+) BTW: you can look the meaning of your codes here:
http://contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.cgi?s=probs&display=checkengine


Scott
95 SE-2.5L ATX (120K+ miles & many mods)
#65718 07/11/02 02:49 PM
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in fact if yur secondaries are jammed open it causes a severe drop in lowdown torque as the engine is not running properly

what normally happens is the engine runs normally untill yu hit a certain rev amount (as potsed earlier approx 3700 rpm) and then this actuates a mechanism to open a second inlet system (laymans terms yu suddenly have an extra set of lungs)

more air is being pumped into the engine so the ECU pumps more fuel which mean bigger bangs = MORE POWER (GRUNT GRUNT)

however if like me yu are having problems with yur secondaries not openeing yur car will get to approximate 5000 revs and stop there as there is not enough air / fuel mixture to continue (in top gear) however and back to my original point if yur (like me) jam your secondaries open yu regain your top end at the expense of bottom end torque

so the choice is yours

the reason why i am going on about this well yur 2ndaries may be jammed open but the actuator could look like it's closed

this could be an easy solution!


Mk1 V6 from UK MEG Boards Hi all

Mods to date:

Bonnet Lifters
Ally Tax Disc Holder
MEG Sticker
Koni Lowering Kit
Titanium/Leather Gearknob (MMMM Feels Nice in my hand)
M3 Electric Mirrors Colour Coded
Green Side Repeaters

17 inch YES ST200 Wheels that look SWEEEEEEEET!

Decat and Str8 Thru Pipe to ST200 Twin Exit Rear AWESOME

To Come:

Green Dials

MORE AIR = MORE FUEL = MORE POWER
#65719 07/12/02 03:52 AM
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Elia Offline OP
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Here's another strange twist to all these problems. Last night, her radiator light went on, and this morning there was a pool of fluid under her car. The water pump was thoroughly checked, and there seems to be absolutely no problem from my installation, though the problem is concentrated in that area. What kind of a problem (other than wear and tear) could make a water pump blow? I get the feeling maybe these two problems are actually unrelated. As far as the secondaries go, where are they located and how do I play with them? THanks a lot.
-Elia

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