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#765618 10/07/03 12:13 AM
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Hey again, well i was dinking around on my car to see if I could find the vacuum leak. I hear a wistling, but I cant really tell where it is coming from. Anyways I was spraying some electrical cleaner around the EGr area and where the pcv vacuume tubes are. When it would hit something it would make the engine idel higher for a second. WEll I was spraying it on the EGr valve and it would idel higher, and then all of a sudden the car idel jumped around and then the car died with a grinding sound to be heard. So I was wondering if anyone thinks that my EGR may be causeing me to have a crappy idel once the car warms up.


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#765619 10/07/03 01:57 AM
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Hmm, I would think so.


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#765620 10/07/03 02:10 PM
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The EGR valve is not supposed to be open on idle at all.
If it is, you get crappy idle.

To check it, leave the car idling then disconnect the
EGR solenoid -> EGR valve rubber vacuum hose from the valve
and apply vacuum on it (you can borrow a handy vac pump from
autozone, or you can just plain suck on it a bit).
With vacuum applied the valve should open and the engine
stutter/stall.

If there's no difference, then the valve is stuck. Through cleaning
with intake cleaner might help, if not replace it.

If the valve is OK (and your idle improves after disconnecting
the EGR control hose) then either the solenoid (unlikely)
is bad or the DFPE sensor is dead (frequent problem).

In my experience 95% percent of idle problems are caused
by vacuum leaks / unmetered air though.
EGR system problems are usually come with a CEL.

Tiv

#765621 10/07/03 05:05 PM
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Hey tiv,


maybe you can help me: my sis car has a code; Insufficient EGR flow.


I first tried the easiest possible: electrical clener on MAF, EGR connections, inside and out.


It didn't work.


Here is her engine (which, by the way, has the EGR components very well located.... I was surprised how easy it was to reach them).



I checked for hose cuts but could not find any.


What would you recommend next ????


p.s. IIRC the code was P0411 or similar.


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#765622 10/07/03 05:53 PM
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the 'insufficient egr flow' is usually caused by a sticking
valve. remove it and spray intake cleaner into all 3 openings
liberally.
If you had done it and didn't help, replace it.

To verify, do the 'vacuum on the egr valve control hose while
idling' test: the engine should nearly stall, if it doesn't
your valve has stuck closed.
I borrowed the handy vac pump from autozone and did the test
in their parking lot in 2 minutes.

The EGR valve should have 3 opening, 2 large ones
(exhaust -> intake) and a small one (control).
You can think of it as a vacuum operated transistor if your
background is like mines

Tiv

#765623 10/07/03 06:01 PM
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ME ??

I guess we are on the same track then !!!


regarding the EGR... I'll do the cleaning before testing the vaccum because I do have a code for the EGR flow.


Just confirming... the EGR valve is this one with ford numbering, correct ???










If so, which I think it is, I will have the same problem as I did on the Zetec: those connections are hard to unplug.. it is metal tubings.



Check this picture, which shows the bottom of the EGR:











Should I just work on it with a pair of pliers and clean all the IN/OUTs of it ???



thanks again,


BB


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#765624 10/07/03 08:08 PM
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Originally posted by BBorges:

Just confirming... the EGR valve is this one with ford numbering, correct ???




Yes it is. The rectangular metal box next to it is the
DFPE sensor.

The EGR valve is bolted to the engine with a pair of 8 or 10mm
metric bolts, and there's a gasket what you should replace
if you remove it (get it from autozone/pepboys).
The EGR tube underneath it should be unscrewed using a
suitable wrench (22mm or 3/4" IIRC).
Use some rust eater/liquid wrench on the large bolt.
Soak the valve well in intake cleaner, you've got nothing to
loose

If the rubber hoses are hand to pull off, use some silicone
spray and rub it into them, that'll make the rubber
flexible again.


Good luck,

Tiv

#765625 10/07/03 08:29 PM
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Thanks tiv !

I have the whole saturday to play with the Sable...


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#765626 10/07/03 10:24 PM
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Originally posted by tiv:
the 'insufficient egr flow' is usually caused by a sticking
valve. remove it and spray intake cleaner into all 3 openings
liberally.
If you had done it and didn't help, replace it.




EGR valves are much more dependable than they used to be. Check for sticking visually before replacing valve. Passages in the EGR tube, valve, and intake manifold distribution passages are prone to clogging. These will have to be cleaned out to restore EGR gas flow. Virtually every car will eventually suffer clogged passages at some point, a much lesser number will suffer inoperative EGR valves.



Originally posted by tiv:
The rectangular metal box next to it is the
DFPE sensor.




That is the DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor.


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#765627 10/08/03 02:07 AM
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Originally posted by Rogerm60:
Originally posted by tiv:
the 'insufficient egr flow' is usually caused by a sticking
valve. remove it and spray intake cleaner into all 3 openings
liberally.
If you had done it and didn't help, replace it.




EGR valves are much more dependable than they used to be. Check for sticking visually before replacing valve. Passages in the EGR tube, valve, and intake manifold distribution passages are prone to clogging. These will have to be cleaned out to restore EGR gas flow. Virtually every car will eventually suffer clogged passages at some point, a much lesser number will suffer inoperative EGR valves.



Originally posted by tiv:
The rectangular metal box next to it is the
DFPE sensor.




That is the DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor.







Learning everyday !!!!


Thanks Roger,





BB


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