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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10 |
Well usually I have the problem with my 95 v6 poping and sputtering when it is cold. This happens for only 400ft of driving and then it stops and runs fine. I tried changing the plugs and wires and also the coil pack. This did not solve the problem. I also tried spraying starting fluid around the engine when cold to check for vaccumm leaks. No luck. Well today it was running fine on my way home from work. The engine was at normal operating temp. Then all of the sudden it started to sputter and fall on its face. I also noticed that the tach was jumping all over the place durring this. I slowed down and then the engine died. I was not able to start it back up. I left the car there and came back later. It started right up, must have cooled off. It drove fine the ride home. Then close to home I really gave it some gas to see how it would run. It started to sputter and the same thing tach bounced all over and died shortly after I slowed down to about 5mph. Help me guys. The codes I got were 211, 212, 215, 216, and 217. I could not do a KOER test since it cranks and cranks and does not start. What is the problem? It has to be some stupid sensor screwing up. Could this be a crank or cam sensor? HELP!! I'm really getting fed up with this piece. My modded supercharged thunderbird is more reliable than this thing.
1995 V6 ATX LX Contour 1993 V6 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe : 14.371 @ 95.5mph with lots o' wheel spin!
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,496
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,496 |
I've had pretty much the exact same set of problems you are describing with an '89 SHO. After taking it to the dealer, it was found to be a camshaft position sensor that was in the process of going bad. It wasn't a cheap fix, but it did take care of my woes.
HTH.
Regards,
JaTo Overland Park, KS JaTo@kc.rr.com
99 Contour SVT #143/2760 Modded to Taste
00 Corvette Coupe Modded to Haste
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10 |
Ok I have one answer. Has anyone had this happen with a contour. I trust JaTO's advice but I would like to be sure before I start buying parts that do not fix the problem. Thanks
1995 V6 ATX LX Contour 1993 V6 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe : 14.371 @ 95.5mph with lots o' wheel spin!
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10
Junior Member
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10 |
Hello? Anyone know??? The stupid thing does not even start anymore. It just cranks and cranks. Has gas but no spark. Someone has had to have had this happen before.
1995 V6 ATX LX Contour 1993 V6 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe : 14.371 @ 95.5mph with lots o' wheel spin!
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,496
Member
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,496 |
Try this before taking it in, as I've heard this one as well (though not in conjunction with any codes):
Check your battery terminals for any corrosion or buildup. If you see some, take some vinegar or some sort of acidic cleaner and pour a small amount over the terminals and connectors. Take a paper towel and clean them up good.
Now for the fun part.
Take a razor or knife and scrape the terminals and connectors to where clean metal is showing. Before you put them back on, spray them with some electrical corrosion blocker or electrical grease (can be found at auto stores).
I'm totally grasping at straws here, but give it a try, especially if you've a lot of corrosion and buildup around the battery and you are still on the original one or one that's seen more than a couple years duty.
Short of this or the camshaft position sensor, I don't know what else to tell you apart from hauling the car in to your local mechanic or Ford dealer.
Good luck.
JaTo Overland Park, KS JaTo@kc.rr.com
99 Contour SVT #143/2760 Modded to Taste
00 Corvette Coupe Modded to Haste
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 165
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 165 |
Easiest way to clean terminals, is to use a terminal cleaner. You can get one for cheap at an autoparts place. They have a bunch of aluminum brushes in side the center of the terminal cleaner brush. Just put it on the terminal and rotate back and forth till your terminals are clean. This could be a bad battery or an ailing battery. Do you get any Check Engine Lights or CEL's?
'96 Mystique, Zetec, MTX. ---Mods--- Removed both intake resonators and airbox. Installed APC air filter and APC crankcase ventilation filter. Removed exhaust resonator. Installed XM Satellite Radio. Replaced bad alternator and 175a fusible link...much fun! Intake plenum---GONE!!!! My car growls louder than yours. If I can't buy it, I'll build it...Trust Me!!!!
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 323
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Posts: 323 |
Two things I can think of: 1)something funky with the fuel pressure 2) something electrical like insulation that wore/cooked off and is now grounding out against the engine.
'98 SVT KKM / TH fix / Mobil 1 / Synth tranny cocktail / JVC LX-30 HU / 10" JL sub / Alpine V12 amp / Panther 199 wheels / Kuhmo Ecsta 215/45/17 / Bosch +4 / Ford Motorsport wires
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 10 |
My codes are: 211 - Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) circuit fault 212 - Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) input to EEC processor/SPOUT circuit grounded 215 - EEC processor detected coil 1 primary circuit failure 216 - EEC processor detected coil 2 primary circuit failure 217 - EEC processor detected coil 3 primary circuit failure
I have gotten the 212 code before. All these other ones have never showed up just this time. Maybe they are just a result of the 212 code. The car does not start at all now. It turns over but no start. Gas but no spark. How can I tell if it is the crank or cam sensor that is bad? I heard something about the check engine light being on when the engine is cranking meaing something. Mine is not on so does that tell me something? Thanks again.
1995 V6 ATX LX Contour 1993 V6 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe : 14.371 @ 95.5mph with lots o' wheel spin!
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