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And I think I know why it blew in the first place. When I did the injector wiring harness to use the Taurus 24# returnless injectors, my friend that helped me told me not to cut the wires down because they can't be lengthened afterwards. So, the wires were pretty long; matter or fact, way too long. I suspect that because they were too long they actually got pinched and might have been either grounded or became open circuit sometimes (especially during high RPM when the engine needs fuel the most). So, I think the mystery has been solved. Now that I alsot got a new shift input shaft, I can begin getting the very first 95 3-liter Contour back on the road soon. Afterwards, I'm going to put the car up for sale.
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Interesting theory, was there any damage to the wires themselves? Usually you gotta pinch a wire awful hard to get it to stop flowing proporly, what was sitting on them? You also might wanna check the current to the injectors when you get it all back together again, and make sure that the 95' PCM can handle those injectors without any miss or low voltage.
Mazda 6S, V6, Speed Yellow
5 Speed, Sport package
Bose audio
Painted 'stash and HIDs!
w/Injen 1/4 14.750 @ 94.94
Former car:
99 Contour SE Sport Black MTX V6
SVT plastic...
1/4 - 15.012 @ 90.58 
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Originally posted by mmarfan:
and make sure that the 95' PCM can handle those injectors without any miss or low voltage.
that's why I haven't driven mine until I get the chip done by fordchip. I got scared when the 1st 3l 95 blew, I didnt wanna be the 2nd to have and 2nd to blow
Derek Johnson
88 TurboTBird 32psi, t3/t4 bb 50trim, megasquirt, 3 bar map, 50lb inj, roller cam w adj. gear, header, 3" downpipe and full exhaust, gutted intake manifolds, spec stg 3
95SE 3L gone
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Originally posted by mmarfan:
make sure that the 95' PCM can handle those injectors without any miss or low voltage.
How do I check that?
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Measure the resistance of the old injectors and compare with the new injectors. If the values are really close then you should be ok.
Normally there are two types, low impedance and high-impedance. The low impedance draw more current and are likely to burn out the injector drivers in the pcm if the pcm was designed for high impedance. If the reverse is true, you would have high impedance injectors on a low-impedance pcm and your injectors may not fire correctly.
If they are in the 12-16 ohms range they are high impedance. If they are from around 2-5 ohms they are low impedance. Low impedance injectors were used in sets and fired in banks on older fuel injection systems. If one injector went bad on that system it affected the whole bank.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
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CRAP! I don't know if I still have the old injectors... Hopefully fordchips.com can get me a custom dyno-tuned chip without charging me an arm and a leg...
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A chip won't affect the circuitry on that drives the injectors. That is fixed to the pcm circuit board. It is either right or its not in this case.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Our old side feed injectors are high impedance - I measured the old and new when I swapped to the mustang 19#ers.
97 Contour SE MTX
K&N 3530, UR UDP, 19# Injectors, mystery mod, FMS wires, Fordchip.com chip, SVT: TB, Flywheel, clutch, exhaust
04 Grand Caravan SXT
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So there is no way to fix it if the old and new injectors have different impedences? Screw...
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