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#754576 09/23/03 08:40 PM
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In attemt to access my power steering lines, I removed the ?mater cylinder? I think. It had two brake lines entering it. And it is located right below the brake fluid container in the engine compartment. Anyway, I got everything back to gether and now my brake pedal goes all the way to the floor without any resistance.

I pumped the brakes for about 5 minutes but still no luck, I have been told you need to bleed the brakes. I am pretty sure I got air in the lines.

Anyone bled the brakes before and can tell me how? Is this even my problem. Any help would be great. Thanks a bunch!


1995 Contour LX (ATX) KKM True Rev Sport Induction ( Video ) Alpine CDA-7894 / JBL 1200W AMP 12" MTX Subs 5x7 Alpine Mids Brullen mandrel bent quasi-dual exaust
#754577 09/23/03 10:22 PM
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If the brake fluid drained out of the resivoir, it can become difficult to purge the air from the master cylinders chambers. New units are normally purged by running the the output lines back into the resivoir and pumping.

Beware! Brake fluid eats paint!

Since the lines are still full, you may be able to crack the output line connections and purge just the cylinder. Protect the area with lots of plastic and use rags to subdue squirting. The resivoir must not run empty! There is no need to pump the pedal hard and fast.

Once some pedal operation is restored, you must open the bleeder at each wheel cylinder to purge air. It is advisable that you purchase a bleeding kit. This contains a hose with a one-way valve to prevent air from re-entering the wheel cylinders.

Again, do not run the resivoir empty or you will have to start over!



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#754578 09/24/03 04:35 AM
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Quote:

Once some pedal operation is restored, you must open the bleeder at each wheel cylinder to purge air. It is advisable that you purchase a bleeding kit. This contains a hose with a one-way valve to prevent air from re-entering the wheel cylinders.




When bleeding the brake cylinders, you can also try replacing the bleeder screws with "Speed Bleeders" made by Russell. Basicly, they are bleeders with a one way check valve in them. They make bleeding brakes a LOT easier!
Speed shops and most Hi Perf. mail order/ website places like Summit Racing carry them. (www.summitracing.com - do a search for "speed bleeder".)
Call Summitt (800 230 3030)or go to a speed shop and tell them the exact details of your car and whether disc/disc or disc/ drum etc.
Here is a link to Russell for more info
Russell

Go to "brake lines and components",then scroll down and click on "speed bleeders". See the instructions and the click on "domestic cars" at the top of page to find your application.

You can also find them in auto parts stores in the section that has those "HELP!" funky replacement parts on the cardboard cards. They are the same thing and appear to be the Russell units repackaged. Either way make sure you connect a piece of tubing from the bleeder to some kind of a container to collect the expelled fluid! Its nasty, slippery stuff!


Former, now returned CEG'er! 95SE MTX, (AKA "The Road Rat"). Stock except for:TH fix, B.A.T. big brake kit, tranny cocktail and lots of re-insulated wiring! May yet be a 3.0! "Speed doesn't kill, stupidity does!"
#754579 09/24/03 11:44 PM
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The part you were refering to was the distribution block, I believe. I just went thru bleeding the brakes on a 69 Camaro that had oversized rotors installed all around, so it's fresh in my head. From what everyone else said, they are right on!!
Just to explain it simply, bench blead the master cylinder first, this is the reservoir. Use speed bleeders like posted, or you can rent a bleeder kit from Auto Zone. You'll run rubber lines from from where your brakes lines leave the cylinder into the top of the reservoir. Have someone pump the brakes so the fluid leaves and returns into the same spot, the reservoir. You should see air bubbles if air did get into the cylinder. For more details, you can PM me.
Then, hook up your brake lines again, then bleed your lines. Start with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. The best way I've found to do this, and you can do it alone, is to open up the bleeder on the caliper, and just let it drip. This is called gravity bleeding. This will prevent any risk of air retning into the system. Let in run for about 5-10 min depending on the speed of the drip. Close the bleeder then move to the next one. Make sure you check the cylinder so that it doesn't get too low on fluid. Again, if you have any questions, PM me.
If I forgot something, or some trick, please, someone correct me. This is what I've always done and have never had any problems. Good luck Jediboy!!


2000 CSVT Silver Frost: #942 of 2150 HID Projectors and Fog Light Mod, Optomized TB, MSDS headers 2003 Silverstone Z

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