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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6 |
had same (i think) right through steering wheel?
tie rod end fixed it for me .
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 99
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 99 |
Well, i went in today and got all my tires roatated and balanced. i will see tonight if that did the trick on my car.
Jeremy Plank
Black 2000 SVT
Born on 12/14/1999 #926 of 2150
Tinted windows, CEG Decal
b&m(shortly), Rear SVT BAdge
Painted grilles,pre98 sail panels, Kenwood KDC-X859 MP3 deck
Kenwood MP3 Changer, Infinity Basslink
New Motegi FF5s Hyperblack
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,360
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,360 |
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 14
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 14 |
I think I have the same problem as well - I have all the same shake/vibration characteristics only I've noticed a few more things. Mine seems to do it only after I've throttled heavily (passing a car between 50-75 MPH), and if I apply the brakes while the car is vibrating, it amplifies the vibrations. Also, when I am at a standstill and shift into DRIVE or REVERSE, there is an audible "clunk" from the engine bay. That same clunk happens if I am driving straight in 1st and hit the gas after releasing it (jerking action). Does anyone agree with me that it could be an engine mount? I thought it might have been a CV joint but that would make noise while turning and my car doesn't do that. Am I right? B.T.W. my car is '97 LX V6 ATX. Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Chad
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
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CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
I have a 95 GL 2.5L. I just finished replacing the driver's side lower control arm. I had front end shake. Went in for a frontend alignment and they told me my control arm was bad.
Reading the manual, it tells me that to remove the drivers side lower control arm. the engine has to be lowered, engine chassis, etc. has to be disconnected!!!
I came up with an alternate routine. I was able to remove the control arm without dropping the engine. The control arm 4 bolts holding it to the chassis. Two of the bolts I was able to remove. The third bold I cut the head off with a hack saw to remove it - was rather easy to do so. the 4th bold I had to grind down one side of the upper lip to remove it so it cleared the trans housing - not much had to be removed just one side of the bolthead lower lip. The control arm bushings were very loose which caused quite a bit of play. When refastening the control arm. the bolt hole where I caut the bolt in half was replaced with a new bolt. The new bolt was reversed and pushed up from the botton with the nut on top - fitted perfectly. Since I was at this level, I went ahead and replaced the half shaft - rebuilt unit was only 60 dollars.
Had to purchase a new axle bolt from Ford. That cost me 6 dollars. Auto Zone provides free loaner tools which allowed me to pull the half-axle and to separate the ball joint from steering knuckle.
Went in and got a lifetime alignment. Car drives quite nicely. Technician did say that the caster was a hair off - apparently you can't adjust this on these cars. He said that it would not cause any problems. I suspect that if I replace the other control arm this would bring it within spec....I'm not planning to do this to say the least.
Overall a 600 job for just the control arm replacement ending up costing me about 190 plus 90 dollars for a life-time allignment and some bruised knuckles......
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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