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Just thought I'd post a note about fixing the power / remote / keyless trunk opening feature. Hopefully others will learn from my mistake! (see "important lesson" section)

Background:

This feature started only working intermittently about a year ago, and for the last 3 or 4 months hasn't worked at all (just a weak clicking sound could sometimes be heard when you press the button)

Fix:

*1) flip the back seats forward (yes, I know you'll be standing outside the trunk working on it from there.. read on)

2) remove the rear plastic trunk cover thingy

**3) mark the location of the trunk latch mechanism by tracing around it with a felt pen.

4) remove the torx screws holding the remote motor (is on driver side) and the ones holding the latch mechanism.

5) lift out the latch mechanism (you may have to pry off the black plastic switch for the trunk light if so equipped), and wiggle/twist it so you can get the linkage of the remote motor out. You'll have to pull off the cables for the key and the driver-side lever ways of opening. Just remove the red and white cable sheith from their holders (U clips), you don't need to actually disconnect the cable from the lever.

6) disconnect the electrical connector on the motor unit.

7) use circuit tester on connector to verify that when you push the button on your remote, you get a voltage output. If not, then taking the motor apart isn't gonna help.

8) use a flat screwdriver to split the 2 halves of the motor case (push under the tabs, work your way around). CAREFUL, it's spring loaded, when it comes apart, it is likely that parts will go flying, so do it carefully, and in an enclosed space (like reaching into the trunk).

9) clean up the old grease, and the electrical connectors both on the white plastic plunger part, as well as the tracks of electrical conduit running along the length of the inside of the casing (this tracks contact the connectors on the white plastic plunger). Re-grease the gears and teeth on the plastic plunger part, and the holes in the case halves that hold the gears.

10) reassemble the motor/gear/plunger assembly. It's not as bad as it first appears. White plunger thing only goes in 1 way (teeth engaging the teeth on the white round gear. The spring goes over the plastic plunger, then the metal plunger (with attached linkage) goes into the plastic one (it's keyed, can only go in 1 way). You've gotta hold the 2 plungers together with the spring compressed to fit the end of the spring against the end of the case. Put the gray gear in its spot (it will be one of the parts that fell out), and fit other 1/2 of case together. You might have to lightly push the end of the spring (by plunger opening) with a screw driver to get the case to close.

11) motor should (hopefully) work now. The problem on mine was old blackish grease on the tracks of conduit. I think there was poor electrical connection there. I de-glazed all the copper bits with a fine file or emory paper (before regreasing). So, plug it back in and test motor with remote (before reattaching it to the car, just to make sure it works). I had to split the case again, because the gray gear wasn't lined up right the first time I put it together.

12) re-assemble. ***Don't forget to re-install the cables in their holders (the ones for key or driver's side lever entry).

13) if you haven't done #3, you'll have to adjust the latch location so the trunk latches correctly and that it is even with the rear fenders.

14) leave the plastic cover off until you're sure it works OK and is adjusted right.

Notes on my adventure:

* I didn't do this, why would I?? See ***

** I didn't do this either, but it would've saved me fiddling around for 10 minutes getting the trunk to close evenly and be the right height.

NOW THE IMPORTANT LESSON!!

*** In my rush to finish & reassemble, I put the latch mechanism in WITHOUT reattaching the cables. THAT'S A MAJOR BONEHEAD MANOUVER!! I closed trunk. Power remote makes right noise, but trunk doesn't open.... Try key, trunk doesn't open (feeling somewhat alarmed). Try lever by driver door... TRUNK DOESN'T OPEN!!! It turns out that the cables hold the linkage thingy in the right orientation. If they're not connected, there is no way to open the trunk.

So; if you have done number 1), you crawl into trunk, and loosen latch mechanism (another reason to leave the plastic cover off til you're sure it's OK) and use screwdriver to flip the release lever. Breath heavy sigh of relief.

If you're me, you get your utility knife and cut a flap in your rear window cover (after trying for an hour to devise another way of getting the trunk open). Lift flap, stick hand through hole in the metal work, wiggle the rear seat release cable free (using screwdriver to pry down on cable), pull cable through freshly mutilated window deck cover to allow you to flip seat forward.

Anyway, it's one of those things where I was kickin' myself for stupidity (& rushing). Learn from my misfortune!!

Regards,

Brent


95 SE MTX (only 104K km!)
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Been there done that. Good How-To however

It's amazing how simple that mechanism is huh? A cheap radio shack electrical motor and that's about it!

I had bought a replacement from the junkyard but while taking the "broken" one out I took it apart, and played around with it. And bingo, it worked again....


"Fear is the little death." Muadib.
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yes, it struck me as a weird gizmo that's complicted, but somehow simple at the same time... at first I though it was funny that they seem to fail easily.. then I saw "made in France" on it... Ah, yes the type of thing I would expect to find on a Citroen.... 'nuf said.

Brent


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Hmmm, lots of silicone spray into the mechanism and a few good whacks with a longhandled screwdriver worked wonders for mine, saved lots of time and vehicle mutilation too... (sorry, couldn't resist). Might be worth trying that before you go through the exercise of pulling it out and apart for cleaning. Been golden for 6 months now. Nice write up though.

Scott


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I appreciate you posting this. I was having trouble, expecting it to be a fuse, came across your post... 30minutes later, my trunk was popping like when it was new!!!

Again, I appreciate it!

Ryan


1998 Contour SVT Dual-Honed UIM, 170k miles & 2000 Cougar MTX with: 99 SVT Engine, CA-KKM Intake, T.E.H. and polished UIM, High-Flow Cat, Quaife, Pro Flow 75mm, Superchip, TruBendz dual Borla, WR-SS Headers, Fidanza, Grizzly Street, Roush & KYB...
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Thanks from me also. Your intructions were most helpful in fixing my remote trunk problem as well. Although my problem was not the old dirty grease problem but a tooth on the gray gear was sheered off and jambed into the gear track. Removed the broken tooth, reassembled everything back together and its working again.

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Worked for me too but I also had a broken tooth on the gray gear.


'98 SVT #1838 of 6535, every mile's mine! That makes no one to blame but me.

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