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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8
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OP
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8 |
Hey all, I have a few questions on what to do with my car. Feel free to e-mail me directly with help, I would appreciate it. Here's the scoop and my questions to follow, sorry about the bandwidth. Car: 2000 SVT Contour, stock except for drop in K&N 36.7k miles, bought it used from a middle aged private owner 8k miles ago. No problems with car other than 1-2 shift was funny occasionally, apparently that is common. Problem: Driving on highway at 75 mph, hear a ticking noise, sounded like clutch/maybe fenderliner rubbing the tire. 5 miles later engine goes boom with no warning, pistons/rods/oil pan debris blow out from under car. Engine was at approx 3k rpm, running cool, plenty of oil, no other problems. Outside temp was 75 degrees. Upon inspection at home, looks like #1, 2, or 3 rod, possibly more than one of them let go, punched several large holes in oil pan. Found a completely bare wrist pin laying on the front downpipe with a large scrape and crack in it. I have run the car hard before, but never downshifted and overrevved the engine, only hit fuel cutoff twice accelerating the car, and both occurances were several thousand miles ago. Questions: Car is covered under factory ESP, so I should be able to get a free new engine out of this. What I want to know is what I should do while the car is apart. Should I do internals? Forged rods/pistons? Lower compression now in expectation of forced induction later on? If I go that route, it won't be for at least 2 years/40k miles. Install LSD while everything is apart? New clutch/flywheel? Screw it all and go 3liter/3.5 liter? Stock replacement and live with it for a few years. Personal Comments: I love this car, I will not be getting rid of it. I am disappointed because I take care of my vehicles, this car has had detailing every 2 weeks max since I bought it. Mobil 1 since I bought it, PO used Castrol Blend. I have done a NASA driving school at Summit Point, and absolutely loved it. Thinking about doing SCCA semi competitively locally in STS or STX, and leave engine stock. Also dragged the car once and loved it. Did ok for the first time, ran a 15.9 if anyone is interested. All comments welcome, I will be dealing with the car within 2 weeks, so a quick reply is welcome. Tony azerante@vt.edu2000 Burgundy SVT Contour (Dead for now)
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,616
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,616 |
Have Ford replace your engine with new SVT motor (watch them, and document all parts going into your car!), and then learn how to drive/race in a stock class. Get good tires and brake pads, and have fun. Cheapest way to go...if its covered under your ESP.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133 |
Originally posted by waggy73:
Hey all, I have a few questions on what to do with my car. Feel free to e-mail me directly with help, I would appreciate it. Here's the scoop and my questions to follow, sorry about the bandwidth.
Car:
2000 SVT Contour, stock except for drop in K&N
36.7k miles, bought it used from a middle aged private owner 8k miles ago. No problems with car other than 1-2 shift was funny occasionally, apparently that is common.
Problem:
Driving on highway at 75 mph, hear a ticking noise, sounded like clutch/maybe fenderliner rubbing the tire. 5 miles later engine goes boom with no warning, pistons/rods/oil pan debris blow out from under car. Engine was at approx 3k rpm, running cool, plenty of oil, no other problems. Outside temp was 75 degrees. Upon inspection at home, looks like #1, 2, or 3 rod, possibly more than one of them let go, punched several large holes in oil pan. Found a completely bare wrist pin laying on the front downpipe with a large scrape and crack in it. I have run the car hard before, but never downshifted and overrevved the engine, only hit fuel cutoff twice accelerating the car, and both occurances were several thousand miles ago.
Questions:
Car is covered under factory ESP, so I should be able to get a free new engine out of this. What I want to know is what I should do while the car is apart.
Should I do internals? Forged rods/pistons?
Lower compression now in expectation of forced induction later on? If I go that route, it won't be for at least 2 years/40k miles.
Install LSD while everything is apart? New clutch/flywheel?
Screw it all and go 3liter/3.5 liter?
Stock replacement and live with it for a few years.
Personal Comments:
I love this car, I will not be getting rid of it. I am disappointed because I take care of my vehicles, this car has had detailing every 2 weeks max since I bought it. Mobil 1 since I bought it, PO used Castrol Blend. I have done a NASA driving school at Summit Point, and absolutely loved it. Thinking about doing SCCA semi competitively locally in STS or STX, and leave engine stock. Also dragged the car once and loved it. Did ok for the first time, ran a 15.9 if anyone is interested. All comments welcome, I will be dealing with the car within 2 weeks, so a quick reply is welcome.
Tony
azerante@vt.edu
2000 Burgundy SVT Contour (Dead for now)
I'm not saying I don't believe you cuz I do, but to hear about a motor that came apart like THAT is hard to believe. I think I would really be parked on the Ford warranty dept's line, or something, cuz a motor that does that had other problems. I would check at CarFax to see if it had been in the shop before, or some other car history type program. I would also have my dealer checking to see if there were other service records. You may have to call the PO and ask if he took it to any dealers anywhere, there should be a record. For a motor to grenade like that means something catastrophic occurred. Motprs spin bearings, or seize pistons, or burn valves, not blow out the bottom of the oil pan, that is ludicrous. Remember it's easier to ignore someone who isn't causing a big fuss. So be the squeaky wheel, push em til they give up and replace your motor. Write a letter to your local newspaper, post on the net, call your local Better Business Bureau, etc, etc, etc. DO NOT just give up and pay for a new motor if you believe there was wrongdoing.
Ken, 99 Silver Frost SE Zetec Atx, polished alloys, Kumho's, Pioneer hi power CD/AM/FM. Factory spoiler (added) Audi side lites, Borla stainless steel muff. Stolen, recovered in pieces. Looking for another Tour, preferably V6, 5 speed.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,779
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,779 |
ummm....he's not giving up....it is still covered under warranty....  i say go back to a new stock motor for now.
99 SVTC, T-Red, #652/2760-12.8.1998
Mother#@%@!* did I sound abstract?
I hope it sounded more confusin than that!
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
If its covered, and it better be, go with the stock SVT replacement motor. If they need to replace CAMs, get SVT cams not standard V-6 cams. Be certain they put in an SVT motor - get documentation, there are differences in the internals. In fact, be sure the dealer is a properly qualified SVT dealership.
If by some WILD technicality its not covered, I think a 3L would be a sweet substitute. Plenty of info & help here in the 3L boards.
Man, it makes me sad when this stuff happens to a Contour. I don't know how well I would handle it if something happened to my SE.
Good luck & READ YOUR WARRANTY PAPERS FRONT TO BACK so you know what you are entitled to under the CONTRACT.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,660
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,660 |
Assuming the motor will be covered under warranty, I'd do 2 things that are relatively inexpensive in parts but will kill you on labor to R&R the tranny: torsen/quaife (your choice) and new clutch. Usually if you provide those parts the dealership will install them for just the labor without the tranny R&R, but talk to the service manager first. Other than that, make darned sure you get a replacement SVT motor and enjoy your "new" car.
Scott
Troll! '99 BMW 328i
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8
Newbie
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OP
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8 |
Thanks for the help guys. I can honestly say it must be a manufacturing defect, I know cars and take care of mine, I've built a couple on the side and helped to install several others. In my opinion, one of the cylinders went lean, blowing the piston out and thus allowing the rod to punch the oil pan and other things. The only other thing I can think of is I spun a bearing and it spun out of the rod enough to allow the rod to twist on the crank and thus break it. I will definitely make sure that the engine is a SVT replacement. I think I will go with a Quaife and a new clutch at this time. The engine should definitely be under warranty, so the $$ shouldn't be too bad. Thanks again.
Tony
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133 |
Originally posted by JonnySVT:
ummm....he's not giving up....it is still covered under warranty....
i say go back to a new stock motor for now.
Oops, DUH TO ME, I didn't catch that part, my bad. Yes, new stock motor, defintely, defintely, Ken
Ken, 99 Silver Frost SE Zetec Atx, polished alloys, Kumho's, Pioneer hi power CD/AM/FM. Factory spoiler (added) Audi side lites, Borla stainless steel muff. Stolen, recovered in pieces. Looking for another Tour, preferably V6, 5 speed.
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