|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69
CEG\'er
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69 |
I read in another thread that gapping the spark plugs a bit closer will cause them to run cooler. Recall that I have had the problem with a few spark plugs having cracked insulators. Another guy said that the idle would improve if I gapped them at spec or even wider than spec.
While I appreciate both people's opinions I wonder which is the best for my engine at this point. According to the thread that suggested that I gap them closer this advice was given by someone who once worked for Autolite or another major spark plug manufacturer. The suggestion was given as a way to prevent the insulators from cracking since the plugs would run cooler.
I presently have them gapped at .045 instead of .050 and it runs pretty good. The idle is even although I can feel the idle through the steering wheel. I always figured this was due to aged motormounts.
Any suggestions?
DB
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 465
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 465 |
There has been tons of discussion on this topic. Do a search, and the answer you're looking for is probably there. Also, tell people what kind of engine you have. My CSVT recommends .52-.56.
Old car: '98 SVT T-Red
K&N air filter; Ford Focus RS shift knob. Off to be auctioned off somewhere.
New car: 2003 Honda Accord DX Sedan, 5-speed.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
If you're happy with your current gap, keep it. The wider gap requires additional voltage to get a spark to jump across. Higher voltage = higher spark temp. Higher spark temp = more efficient burn + probably a smoother idle.
According to the engineer I spoke to, cracked insulators on PROPERLY INSTALLED PLUGS is caused by the wire core heating, expanding & rupturing the insulator. This can be a result of a gap too wide (less likely) a plug wire/wire boot failing (most likely) or a failing coil (pack) (somewhat likely).
His strongly recommended solution was to check the coil pack & replace if needed, replace plugs & plug wires at the same time & narrow the gap if the problem is persistant - which it was for the gents I was trying to help.
Again, if you're not exploding plugs, keep things the way you like them. I certainly don't like for people to spend money if they don't have to.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
I am responding as a former tune up technician that made his living from installing several sets of spark plugs a day. I'm the one that said the plugs should be at the factory spec and that my personal experience is that it is best to be at the wide end of the spec.
Do what you wish, but there is considerable training and experience that went into my recommendation.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69 |
I copied that text out of another post and neglected to copy the part that stated that my '95 has a Zetec.
Maybe the plug cracking was due to the coil pack because my old one was bad. Now that I have a new coil pack and the engine is running good I will probebly put the gap back to the spec. of .50 and then perhaps my idle will improve.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Danny Brown
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133 |
Originally posted by dbbubba:
I read in another thread that gapping the spark plugs a bit closer will cause them to run cooler. Recall that I have had the problem with a few spark plugs having cracked insulators. Another guy said that the idle would improve if I gapped them at spec or even wider than spec.
While I appreciate both people's opinions I wonder which is the best for my engine at this point. According to the thread that suggested that I gap them closer this advice was given by someone who once worked for Autolite or another major spark plug manufacturer. The suggestion was given as a way to prevent the insulators from cracking since the plugs would run cooler.
I presently have them gapped at .045 instead of .050 and it runs pretty good. The idle is even although I can feel the idle through the steering wheel. I always figured this was due to aged motormounts.
Any suggestions?
DB
.050 is the gap Ford calls for on my Zetec. And while we're talking of plugs, I see that you've had cracked insulators. As you know I've had the same problem. I thought it was just on the Motorcrafts, but I just happened to look at the 2 previous sets of Autolites and two of them in each set had cracked insulators, so it was more than the incorrect plugs, which may have been a big part of it, but now there's a new wrinkle in the equation. But I can not stress enough that there is only one way to crack an insulator on a plug. And that is from spark either leaking out, or spark trying to bust it's way in. My plugs all had big cracks in the ceramic, from the top to the bottom where the plug wrench engages the hex nut. And over time there was a huge carbon mark, from electricity. So if you have not replaced your plug wires yet, and you still have broken insulators reoccurring, it's plug wires, or more specifically plug boots. I really think that my boots were getting old, and removing them to replace the plugs cracked the boots. I have not discerend yet if the cracked boots are letting the spark escaping from the plug and shorting out to the head, or if the spark is coming back in through the head and getting in through the boot back to the plug. I guess after looking at what I wrote the second scenario doesn't sound real plausible, but, who knows ? Just thinking about it it seems logical also that your bad boots/wires could possibly burn your coil pack up ? I think someone told me this a while ago when I was hot on the trail of trying to find out why I was blowing plugs out.
Ken, 99 Silver Frost SE Zetec Atx, polished alloys, Kumho's, Pioneer hi power CD/AM/FM. Factory spoiler (added) Audi side lites, Borla stainless steel muff. Stolen, recovered in pieces. Looking for another Tour, preferably V6, 5 speed.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69 |
My car was running decently until the upper waterhose broke and sprayed water everywhere under the hood. As soon as I replaced the hose and cranked the car it was missing on one cylinder. The first thing I did was to replace the plug wires and it didn't help anything. I installed a set of Motorcraft AZFS-22PP at about that time, too.
Not long after this and before the missing ever stopped, the tensioner for the timing belt broke. This was in March of '02 and I let the car sit on the driveway until early August of this year. It wasn't until I replaced everything having to do with the timing belt and got the car running (kinda') again that I delt with the miss. In the long run it turns out that it was the coil pack causing the problem all along.
Since I only installed the new coil pack last Friday night I have not had time to pull the plugs and examine them.
I will add this...
It was the #1 and #4 plugs that were cracked. Those plugs are also tied together in the coil pack because the secondaries of the #1 and #4 coils are tied. Eventually my #4 cylinder was completely dead. I read in another thread that a bad coil pack could cause cracking. Maybe so?
Danny Brown
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
Most often cracked plugs are from installation. It is far more common with Champion plugs due to their more brittle porcelain and thinner internal portion of the center wire.
Although installation isn't the only thing that can crack plugs, it is by far the most common, so look at your spark plug socket (it should have a rubber protector that also holds the plug it the socket) and review your technique so that you don't allow the socket to get cocked to the side as you finish tightening the plug. Also make sure you are not overtightening. If in doubt, use a torque wrench a few times to help gain the proper feel.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69
CEG\'er
|
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69 |
I didn't crack them installing them and I didn't crack them taking them out. I've changed plugs too many times on too many cars in the past.
We'll see how they look once I have run the car with a working coilpack for a few weeks.
I'll post when I pull them and look at them in a few weeks.
Meanwhile, I'm driving it!
DB
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
|
