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I've taken my car to my best friends uncle a few days ago.
I gave him a big list or things to check, motor mounts, IAC
ect...
The PCV extension hose I found under the car
should fix my idle problems. For now I have tape over
this until the part is shipped. She runs much better but
I can still tell this car lacks stop and go power out of
1st gear. But I think that is just way this car rides.
The squeaking noise from the AC being on is the Serp Belt.
I just got a new belt last year, but it needs a new one.
He pointed out that the belt is glazed over and is stretched. So he really can't tighten it beyond what it is
now and the shiny coat makes it skip around. I can see his
points so I'm just going to get a new belt. I'd rather pay
him 60$ to put on a new belt than for me to spend 5 hours
grunting without air tools in my front yard.
I did find a bad Right Sway Bar about a week ago. There was
some noise that made me even look for it. Never found the
noise and it didn't come back for the tech either. But I
did find the rubber ripped off around the sway bar. His
wife told me that is was not a life or death part and could
wait. But they could fix the problem cheap.
Right sway bar = 74.40
Hose PCV extension =44.31
Belt = 98.90
=>>239.09 with tax
All in all that is not a bad price for those things to get fixed. I could do them myself but I'm burned out on fixing
what feels like and endless car of problems. I will never
buy another FORD/GM-(ANY CAR)/Mercury.
Now the big problem that really goes in for the kill.
I had him check the VCT. He did the same thing I did.
Reset the codes and wiggled the wires around and it
popped up with P1381 and P1380.
He said there was DRY ROTT! He has never seen a car with
less miles and so new to have this problem. Told me to
take it to the dealer and see what they have to say. There
might be a Wire Harness Kit? And then told me he could do
it but was afraid he would damage other wires. And that I
should not do the wires myself.
He knows I have just enough smarts to rewire. But that just
kills me to hear those words "Should Not". I understand
where he is coming from. And the same time 800 to 1000$ for
a just the parts to a wire harness does not set very well
for me. I've already checked online and did not see any
recalls for the 98.
I'm trading in this car in 6months when I get my tax return.
So my problem is killing the VCT errors that set off the
engine lights before I trade her in.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2002
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Your friend's uncle is ripping you on the belt install IMHO, that's the only thing I can comment on.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 21
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 21 |
Originally posted by TronX:
I will never
buy another FORD/GM-(ANY CAR)/Mercury.
Now the big problem that really goes in for the kill.
I'm trading in this car in 6months when I get my tax return.
So my problem is killing the VCT errors that set off the
engine lights before I trade her in.
I bought a Lincoln thinking that since it was a division of PAG, along with the Jag line, I had nothing to fear. HA! Fortuneately I purchased an extebnded warranty at the same time. To date my dealer has done 10k in warranty repairs. OUCH! Plus the resell value sux out the a$$. The Contour belonged to my wife who now drives an Excellent 2003 Nissan Altima 3.5SE more bang for the buck and it doesn't suck.
I am now driving the Contour; what does this tell ya? I love my LS as it has great curb appeal but I really cannot afford to drive it past the extended warranty mileage or 80k, at 78k now, as I am sure to have to pay out the a$$ via my wallet as soon as I hit 80000.1K
I was a looooong time Nissan driver and my next purchase will be a Nissan since I have never been let down like this by them. I really thought I was doing something patriotic by buying American made automobiles. What a joke.
Do yourself a favor. Buy a foregin car that can not only withstand the test of time on our crappy highways but one that also look for one that has the ability ot retain some sort of value at resell.
I love contour.org as it has enabled me to make use of something that I thought was lost and will be forever grateful. Primarily because in the long run I will save tens of thousands by not driving my Lincoln LS. There are those who drive and there are those who drive..... well.... there old Ford Contour.
Good Night America.
1996 Contour GL 2.0L ATX Zetec 88K Miles (no-mods)yet
2000 Lincoln LS V6 Sport
K&N Air Filter Moded Airbox
Borla Exhaust
Kumho Ecsta 245/45/17
CDC Wheels
"Unfortuneately this is about all you can do to this one"
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,319
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Posts: 2,319 |
Front and rear sway (stabilizer) bars only, there is no left/right. Perhaps you meant the end link, about a $10 part IIRC.
Symptoms indicate wiring problem to camshaft timing actuator, this should not require replacement of major harness. Perhaps connector should be checked, or wires examined/repaired back to the next connector (16 pin) at top rear of engine.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,816
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by webpilot:
I was a looooong time Nissan driver and my next purchase will be a Nissan since I have never been let down like this by them.
yeah.... nissans seem to be decent cars. my old 1990 nissan sentra was excellent. i bought it from the original owner (name was dave) for $350, who put 190,000 miles on it driving it 100+ miles to work every day. looked terrible cause the dude never washed it, so it got rusty pretty bad, but he took excellent mechanical care of the car (ran perfect). i (my name is dave) sold it to my freind dave for about $192. he drove it to 202,000 miles before the ORIGINAL clutch started slipping. he drove on a bad clutch till 204,000 miles or so and he got it replaced. drove for about a year after that, then clutch cable broke and when he took it to his dad to check it out, the driver strut tower was tearing away from the body. he junked it for $25 at 210,000 miles. what a car!
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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Your friend's uncle is ripping you on the belt install IMHO, that's the only thing I can comment on.
Yah, at first I thought the same thing. But he is getting
all these parts from Ford. I told him about the other belt
that was OEM and it's dead in 1 years time. That is why it's
costing a little more. 
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Veteran CEG\'er
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Originally posted by horseydug:
Front and rear sway (stabilizer) bars only, there is no left/right. Perhaps you meant the end link, about a $10 part IIRC.
Symptoms indicate wiring problem to camshaft timing actuator, this should not require replacement of major harness. Perhaps connector should be checked, or wires examined/repaired back to the next connector (16 pin) at top rear of engine.
Ahhh.. I don't care what he said I'm sure the harness is fine.
It's just that the engine runs hot so those wires should be
replaces. I'll do this myself if I can find enough information
like those wires you gave me.. Thanks!;)
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SwayBar Link Kit 44$ + 30$
6N664C - Extension Hose 14.31$ + 30$
K060858 - Belt 38.90 + 60$
Supplies - 4.80$
Labor 120$
Tax 16.68$
Total 239.09$
The last people that did the belt charged a little
more than this guy. I think they charge this much
labor because it's not easy to take on and off like
most other cars. You got to remove the tire and fire
wall padding and have small hands..lol 
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Posts: 391
CEG\'er
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I personally think that belt was over priced, and 60$ for installation is a lil much, I got my belt from the dealer for 25$ and installed it in a lil less than 20 mins, taking the tire off, the splash shield so you can access the crank pulley and AC, removed belt and replaced then put it all back together, depending on his labor rate, it should be probobly half of what it was.
just my $0.02
Alan
93 Acura Integra LS 5spd
Horizon Gray Metallic
-------------------------
-96 Gl Zetec ATX- Totaled as of 11/29/03 at 4pm
Champagne Metallic CC
Pics
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Joined: May 2002
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OEM=ford dealer belt.. so what did you have on it before? A gates belt or similar is just as good a motorcraft belt. And changing the belt is EASY. I can do it. Just move tensioner, pull belt off, reroute belt with tensioner up and then let tensioner back down.... EASY, only thing you have to remove is wheel and fender well lining and that cover over the belt area. EASY. Cost me $50 (plus parts) to have a complete stranger change 2 pulleys and the belt for me. If your friends with that guy it should be much cheaper IMHO.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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