Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction SVT cam swap w/supercharger

For starters Iâ??m new here as you can tell. I was posting in the Duratech Performance section when I obviously should be here in this section. I can tell people here are more educated for what Iâ??m requesting.

I own a 98 Mystique â?? Duratech V-6 2.5L non-SVT.

I have spent 3 years researching my ideas and I have just purchased about $15,000 in aftermarket performance parts for my car. My car is currently completely stripped inside and out.

I will be installing a Vortech V-9 f Trim supercharger running 8.5 lbs of boost. Hereâ??s the clincher, I will be swapping the original cams with some SVT cams. To my knowledge no one has done this mostly due to the insane cost of the cams. There seems to be some confusion as to whether or not my computer can handle the revised valve timing from the SVT cams. Vortech cannot give me a concrete answer on this issue either. Vortech is working with me directly on this issue. I am paying Vortech a premium for some special requests as to what I want this car to do. I must add that all other issues related to this modification have been resolved.
Maybe some savvy individual can turn me on to the right information.

If anyone's interested in some other info on my project let me know. I've got a stereo system going in. This isn't a bass boomer. Anyone can generate loud bass. This system is for perfect sound quality and nothing less.

So whats your question?

war...

I swapped in the SVT cams on my Supercharged 3L. Tell vortech you want your money back and talk to Streetflight about a chip.

If you mean can/has anyone swapped in SVT cams, then yes it has been done.

The trick would be in generating enough low-end boost to make the project worthwhile.

The stripped out car and stereo don't quite jive with me...are you stripped out because of weight or because you are re-doing the inside? Without sound deadener your ideas of a perfect sounding system will be all but impossible unless the car is shut off. The interior parts help with sound deadening. The sytem will sound better the more the background noise is diminished, otherwise you need to go that much louder to overcome the noise.

Chances are with a stripped out car I'd run an nitrous motor instead of a vortech, or a turbo'd motor.
For the street and road race the vortech setup is decent, but for the track with a stripped down car and a nice set of slicks, you'd want a roots type blower or nitrous or turbo to get a good hole shot.

Hope this answers whatever questions you might have had.

war...

Kinda off topic - you got pics of your car? For 15 G's that thing should look real different (wether good or bad )

On topic - I've always wanted to try this too. I heard you should keep the cam journals from the specific cam your putting in to keep the cams from slight vibration. (the journals get "broken in" on the specific location at that specific cam)

No I donâ??t have pics right now. I should have some in a couple of weeks. The ones I have are burned on a cd somewhere in my house, canâ??t find it to save my life.

As far as the car looking different. On the outside the only evidence that somethinâ?? is up, will be the rims, tires and brakes. If anyone knows about the Baer Racing brakes you know what I mean. Iâ??ve got pics of those, as soon as I figure out how to post a pic I will.
The rest of the outside is appearance is going to be a total sleeper look. Under the hood and under the chassis is where the insanity is. Iâ??m currently working on my own design for forged aluminum suspension components. Iâ??m trying to see if itâ??s conceivable to replace the stamped steel front lower control arms and the rear control arms with aluminum. Also in the works are roller bearing tie rod (ball joint) ends that connect to the steering knuckle. Iâ??ve even pondered the thought of fiberglass or carbon-fiber hood and trunk lid.
Maybe someday with the last 2 items.

Inside the car is another story. Iâ??ve got all A/D/S speakers and power plates (amps) and an Alpine CD/MP3 head unit. For the cabin Iâ??ve got 3 pair of the 641is component speakers. 1 pair of r10s subs. Five PQ40 amplifiers. Two 16-farad electronic caps will supply the steady stream of stupid amounts of power. The alpine head unit I donâ??t even remember the model #. I bought it almost a year ago and its still in the box unopened somewhere in the basement. The whole inside of the car is sound proofed with Dynamat. Every piece of sheet metal that has the opposite surface exposed to the outside environment has Dynamat on the inside.

The actual purpose for this project I donâ??t really know. Itâ??s like a disease, once you get the bug youâ??re never cured. You guys know, you can never have enough power.