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Anyone care to calculate the rotating speed of the water pump at say 5,000 rpm...(clue to impeller being plastic).... wink


V6 MTX
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Reading the last paragraph of the post by "GS" is what I think every car should have anyway. As people say to "Just keep your eye on the temperature gauge" is not always possible. I look forward to hearing about the buzzer/alarm set-up. Thanks "GS" Ed

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I would gladly trade a fraction of lost horsepower for higher reliability and piece of mind of less propensity to fry your engine!


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Quote:
Originally posted by Terry Haines:
Anyone care to calculate the rotating speed of the water pump at say 5,000 rpm...(clue to impeller being plastic).... wink
hehe, so who makes a scattershield for the waterpump?

As an alternative Terry, how reliable are the BAT electric pumps? The ad in their catalog states that the motor is only good for ~2000 hours. That kind of worries me..... confused


"When I take action, I'm not going to fire a $2 million missile at a $10 empty tent and hit a camel in the butt. It's going to be decisive." - President George W. Bush

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I want to hear more about this "cone". Where exactly is it? How can you tell if it needs replacement? Is this part of the basic pump section that would be replaced? confused

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Quote:
Originally posted by Janine:


....there could well be a reason that
they didn't use a metal impeller.....
They were trying to do things on the cheap, thats the reason.


'98 Mystique LS V6 MTX

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Quote:
Anyone care to calculate the rotating speed of the water pump at say 5,000 rpm...(clue to impeller being plastic)....
178.5 mph, approx. I can be more accurate if someone can tell me the radius of the impeller and its weight.


Andrew
1995 Mercury Mystique 2.5L MTX
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Mines Mystique
Weight is of course irrelevant in such a calculation. Crank and wp do not, I'm sure you are aware, rotate at same speed.

I can post exact size of impeller later today; I have 2 freshly shattered plastic ones, I'm just going to have to tape the bits together to measure but I think about 2.5". ( Edit: 3.0")

"We wouldn't sell metal ones if they couldn't withstand the centrifugal forces".. GMB

"We wouldn't install plastic ones if they couldn't withstand the heat".....Ford

Fictitious quotes of course, but who would you believe?


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km
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Quote:
Originally posted by Terry Haines:
As I posted recently, a V6 with 42,000 had the pump changed for a metal one, plastic impeller was fine but the cone fell out...which do you think happens first...the cone or the impeller... wink
Last month both my cars had shattered impellers and perfect cones. That doesn't mean that a loose cone can't happen and subsequently damage an impeller. Your example however tends to indicate that a loose cone doesn't necessarily cause impeller damage.

If you have to replace the housing, you are kinda in a Catch 22 since they come from Ford with a plastic impeller (allbeit a different color).


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km
stock CD on LS, cass on LX
spoiler, tinted windows on LS only
4 wheel discs on LX only
All other available options on both
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Quote:
Originally posted by GS:
...Did extensive research and found that plastic is the only material that could be molded to produce an efficient design for water flow.

The metal impellar is a lot more shallow than the plastic, and some resources have stated that correct flow in the head is not achieved(prone to hot spots)....
Metal water pumps, as stated above by DanB have been used for years in all makes.

I didn't notice any significant difference in metal impeller topography. I did notice nice sharp metal edges which should have no problems dealing with the bits of plastic now residing in my cooling systems. No change noted in operating temp; metal vs plastic, but that's why there's a thermostat.


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km
stock CD on LS, cass on LX
spoiler, tinted windows on LS only
4 wheel discs on LX only
All other available options on both
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