Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle '98 to '95 MTX swap?

I am looking to replace the tranny in my car with one from a wrecked '98 SVT. I know about the rod vs. cable shift, but what exactly would need to be changed to make this work?

The shift tower is the major difference which you would have to swap over... I don't think its hard to change either. Put the tranny in neutral undue 6 bolts which hold it. Take it out put the new one on and tighten the 6 bolts... I am not %100 sure about the procedure so someone chime in if you know the right way

Has anyone actually tried this?

HMS INC. has done one IIRC....

I've heard it's a PITA to change over.

I just put a 98 SVT tranny (cable shift) into my 95 SE (rod shift). YES, it's a mojor PITA!! The newer shifter assembly was never meant to go into the older body style Contours because the rod shifters dropped straight through the floor. The cable shifters run the cables along the interior of the car then through the floor board. I'm not sure where exactly they're supposed to come through though.

In mine, the rear under seat floor vents come down through the center of the dashboard and then split where it meets up with the floor. I had to cut part of the floor board out in order to fit both the shifter assembly and the cables. I'm not sure about all of them, but the only place I could really find to put the cables was RIGHT in front of the shifter. I cut about a 2"x2" hole in the floor and screwed down the cable mounting bracket. It's a REAL tight fit, but it can be done.

And the shift tower DOES NOT need to be changed out in order to do this, but I do highly recommend it.

Oh yeah, and the bracket on the tranny for mounting the cables to the housing is a tight fit to the brake lines. I had to slightly bend the brake lines (be extremely cautious not to kink them if/when you do) in order to keep from making contact between them and the counter balance on the one shift bar. I also highly recommend connecting the cables before fitting the transmission back into place to the engine.

Just my 2 cents worth!!

So, the difficulty was with fitting the shifter to the car, then? How much trouble is it to actually make the changes to the transaxle (ie the shift tower)?

Rick, the shift tower was no problem at all. But I did have trouble snapping the cables into the hold down brackets when the engine/trans was already bolted into place. That's why I suggested getting the cables on before everything was in place. Other than that, as I said, the only real "hard" part was getting the shifter and cables installed.

OK, found my first problem with swapping the trans from 95 to 98 trans. On the old transmission, right where the newer transmission top cover is, there used to be a plug in that has five terminals in it. Only four of them are used though. I know this plug was for the reverse or neutral/park circuit.

My problem is, the new trans has only one switch on it with a two contact plug. I'm getting a Traction Control / ABS light as soon as I clear 25 MPH and think it's related to this circuit not being completed.

My question is, does anybody have any idea what I need to do to convert my four terminal into the two terminals I have available on the trans? What are the four terminals on the PCM side of the harness for? I know the reverse detent ball (switch) in the top shift cover completes a circuit when shifted into reverse. That's what turns the lights on. Are the other two wires to tell the PCM that the car is no longer in neutral? If so, can I simply jumper the two and in effect tell the PCM that the car is always in gear?

Any help would be appreciated.

You need someone with a 95 Ford Electrical Manual to help you out with this one.
I have a 98 manual and this is all I found.

There is a 2 terminal switch on the MTX-75 for indicating in and out of Reverse.
It does NOT connect to the ABS Module at all and its only function is to provide power to your backup lamps.

Now the Range Selector Sensor tells the ABS when the car is in and out of NEUTRAL.
This is linked directly to the ABS module.
OPEN = OUT OF NEURAL
SHORT = NEUTRAL or PARK
This is only indicated on the ATX option also.

I can only see the color of ONE of the wires.
It is Voilet with a Black stripe.
This goes from the switch, through three harness connectors,
and then splits to go to both backup lamp sockets.

Hmmm. My Chilton's shows the neutral/park switch on both manual and automatic. But you're right, it only shows two wires. I'm wondering what the heck the other two wires in the old connector are for.

Maybe I'll try giving Terry a call and see if he can help. I don't suppose anyone would be willing to throw his number at me?