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#690601 07/13/03 06:43 PM
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I have really bad torque steer on hard accell (forced down shift), the steering wheel tries to wrench itself out of my hands. Anyone have any remedies or mods to help fix this???
Thanx


If less is more, think how much more, more is...
#690602 07/13/03 08:28 PM
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Best thing is a limited-slip differential like a quaife or torsen. But other than that...grip the wheel tighter and don't try to explode on the gas pedal.


1998 black Contour SVT E0 -KKM Intake -B&M Short Shifter -SPARCO front strut tower bar -24mm Aussie rear sway bar
#690603 07/13/03 11:36 PM
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Originally posted by speasle:

I have really bad torque steer on hard accell (forced down shift), the steering wheel tries to wrench itself out of my hands. Anyone have any remedies or mods to help fix this???
Thanx



If you actually want some constructive advise you'll have to provide at least a minimum number of details.

You don't mention it, but from the sound of your message would we be correct in assuming that the torque steer is worse than it has been in the past?

Is this an auto or MTX "(forced down shift)" leads one to presume that it's an auto?

Such a subjective term as "really bad" doesn't tell anyone anything!!!

"tries to wrench itself out of my hands" is somewhat more objective but we still don't know enough. Is this while you are holding the wheel lightly with one hand? or while holding it firmly with both?

At what speeds are we talking?

By "hard accell" are you referring to full throttle or will this happen at less than full throttle?

Does the wheel always pull in the same direction?

Have you driven on both sides of the crown of a road (best done on a divided highway) and noticed any difference in the direction or severity of the pull?

Don't expect a remedy at least until there has been a diagnosis as to what the problem is!!!
All you've done so far is give a very sketchy outline of a symptom, so next we need to determine the cause, then comes the possibility of a solution.

More details please.

Regards, Alan


03 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD 98 Mystique 2.5 MTX 99 SVT - Inheriting Lil Monster's parts 98 SVT - Lil Monster (RIP) 183.7 whp Quaife/Fidanza/UR UD Clutch AFE/MSDS/SHO-Y/Bassani/MagnaCore GC/Koni/22mmR/EndLinks/ES/ KVR Slotted/1144's/SS Lines/MASItaly
#690604 07/14/03 02:43 AM
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Engine & tranny mounts...

Fix them if the are bad (good possibility)

Fill them with urethane either way.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#690605 07/14/03 11:03 PM
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Engine & tranny mounts...

Fix them if the are bad (good possibility)

Fill them with urethane either way.





Always a good idea!

In addition check subframe bushings and bolts, and lower A-arm bushings.


"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
#690606 07/16/03 11:15 PM
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Sounds good, I'll go with the new mounts. My current mounts are ok right now, but I'll get my techs at work to check em out.

And yes obviously "forced down shift" means I have and auto trans. No I'm not hanging on to the steering wheel with my little fingers either. I keep a fairly good grip on things. Yes it is "really bad", if you like I can give you a force measurement if you like I have the tools at work. But I'm looking for a more simplistic approach for those who are not mechanical engineers.
All in all I think I have my answers, the diff is a little expensive right now but is definitely an option.

Thanx guys


If less is more, think how much more, more is...
#690607 07/17/03 05:52 PM
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Originally posted by speasle:
Sounds good, I'll go with the new mounts. My current mounts are ok right now, but I'll get my techs at work to check em out.

And yes obviously "forced down shift" means I have and auto trans. No I'm not hanging on to the steering wheel with my little fingers either. I keep a fairly good grip on things. Yes it is "really bad", if you like I can give you a force measurement if you like I have the tools at work. But I'm looking for a more simplistic approach for those who are not mechanical engineers.
All in all I think I have my answers, the diff is a little expensive right now but is definitely an option.

Thanx guys



While they're checking out the mounts have them also check:

1 - Front control arms (especially the rear bushings).
2 - Subframe bushings and bolts.
3 - Ball joints, tie rods, etc.

Do you get any of this under braking?

I've had a broken mount on my SVT give noticable increase in torque steer into the bad range, but not "really bad".

Had a mount go on a 5.0L and hang the throttle at WOT while trying to merge into traffic
That resulted in "really bad" torque steer and some other bad things, but that's a whole 'nother story.

Regarding the Quaife, it won't address you problem, but get it when you can. I love mine.

Regards, Alan


03 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD 98 Mystique 2.5 MTX 99 SVT - Inheriting Lil Monster's parts 98 SVT - Lil Monster (RIP) 183.7 whp Quaife/Fidanza/UR UD Clutch AFE/MSDS/SHO-Y/Bassani/MagnaCore GC/Koni/22mmR/EndLinks/ES/ KVR Slotted/1144's/SS Lines/MASItaly
#690608 07/18/03 11:23 PM
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The SVT "stab-o-shoc" set up helps, especially when the mini-shock is replaced with our Street Link. Uncertain if it will fit on an ATX-only done the install on MTX cars to date.

I've got a Quaife and the Street Link and I have zero TQ steer or wheel hop unless I dump the clutch with no mercy, in the wet. Check those mounts, although there's less aftermarket/upgrade choices when you've got the ATX.


Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.

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