Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Battery died w/o warning

Last night was an interesting night. First at around 4 my air conditioner died out, just started blowing hot air. I thought it just needed to be charged, because it has been gradually getting warmer and warmer, but today it just gave out. Then about 20 minutes later it came back and was nice and cold. I parked at the mall and when I came back the air was gone again and would not come back. Later that night I noticed that my panel light was dim, tried turning it up but it was maxed out. So I went to a friends house and about 2 hours later I go to drive a friend home, get in the car, start it up and start driving, but the car is really sluggish. Then the headlights get dim, the panal gets dim, and my brake and abs lights are flickering on and off. Then once I accelerate they stop. So driving some more I notice the air bag light came on, and now the break and abs are rapid flashing. Then the my radio starts turning on and off, then off all together, then I lost the instrument panal, no speedometer, tach, nothing. All the warning lights are on ACCEPT THE BATTERY LIGHT and CEL. The battery light did not come on until the car finally died about 2 minutes later. Then once I turned the key on and off the battery light went off and didn't come back on again, althought the battery was stone dead.
So my dad in his f250 came to the rescue, Jumped the car, my dad drove it home, pulled it in the garage and you could smell the alternator burning up, it was red hot. The battery with engine running had a voltage of 11.92 without the engine running 11.88. Some how the alternator went or something is shorting. I just think it is strange the battery light never came on. Isn't that what that is for?
Anyone have this happen to them, or have any probably fixes?

BTW my car is a 1999 with 2.5L engine, 134,000 miles.

Thanxs
-Greg

11.88 V is not a dead battery. Have it load tested to be sure of its condition. Hook up a voltmeter and turn on the headlights. if the battery is discharged or has failed, the reading will be well below the voltage you gave.

Better look closer at that alternator.

Steve

Just a note Ford uses an actually fuse between the alternator and the battery now. Located just below the coil pack, fuseholder and wiring. 175 amp. such a wonderful location. Sort like an in-line application.
At least on my brothers 98 F-150 it's the firewall above and slighly to the left of the battery. Two actually?
It has caused troubleshooting hassels in the past for others.

Paul

Not sure when Ford dropped the fusilbe link design. Probably a Mazda influence.
I really liked the 1989 japanese automotive electrical design when I bought my Probe. A schematic you could use.

Update...

Ran some tests out of the Ford Service manual and came to the conclusion that the alternator needed to be replaced. After an hour trying to get the thing out, finally got it out and opened it up, the thing was so caroded inside that the the brushes could only pick up during only an 8th a turn. This must have caused arcing and basically got so hot that the soder had melted off some of the contacts and the plastic board melted. Also to note this must have been the second (who knows if more) alternator put in because this one is a remanufactured one. Now the next objective is to find a place that has one in stock, and on a sunday. Pep Boys doesn't have it and it will take a week to get in. Anyone in the Middletown area of New Jersey have any suggestions, drop me an e-mail at bigred5098@comcast.net.

-Greg

My alt went out on me about 8 months ago. First time it took me about 2 hours to get out. Put the new one on in about an hour. That one was dead. I took it back out, went back to autozone where they gave me another one, and it took me aout 45 minutes this time to take it out and about 45 to put it back in. ALTERNATORS are a P.I.T.A.