Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting PO300 code?

I have a 96 GL v6 automatic with about 74000 miles. A couple of weeks ago it started running like total crap. Rough when hitting the accelerator to get going,lots of bucks and hesitations, and continues till about 4000rpms.
At idle while sitting at lights it idles fine, but will occasionally surge and try to move forward. Autozone pulled the code and came up with a po300 code random multile cylinder misfire. He felt that it just needed a tune up. Is this true? Has anyone had similar problems? I am going to replace the fual filter, but could there be anything else

sounds like its time for plugs and wires. are they original?

I'm not sure. I bought the car used with about 62000 on it and it has run fine with the exception of the right front wheel falling off and mangling the fender. Is it better to take it in for a tune up or do it myself? I have changed plugs and wires in other cars, but I hear these cars can be a pain? Whats your opinion?

I forgot to ask. Is it mare than likely plugs or wires? I don't mind taking it to the shop to get a basic tune up, but I know they will rape me on wires. Should I tell them to just do the basic tune up and do the wires myself?

hey i had that problem, spend the money and get the good plugs and 9mm ford motorsport wires the light will go out after a few engine warm up cool down cycles you can do it your self it easy

First off, did you run out of gas recently? If you did, then this will throw the P0300.

If not, here is some info from the Ford Technical Service Publication CD for P0300:

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HD1 CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES TO MISFIRE
====================================

Misfire Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs):

P0301 - Cyl #1, Inj Test Pin 75
P0302 - Cyl #2, Inj Test Pin 101
P0303 - Cyl #3, Inj Test Pin 74
P0304 - Cyl #4, Inj Test Pin 100
P0305 - Cyl #5, Inj Test Pin 73
P0306 - Cyl #6, Inj Test Pin 99
P0307 - Cyl #7, Inj Test Pin 72
P0308 - Cyl #8, Inj Test Pin 98
P0300 - multiple cylinders misfiring, or cannot identify cylinder due to Camshaft Position sensor failure.

Possible causes:
-- Ignition System.
-- Fuel Injectors.
-- Fuel Pressure.
-- Evaporative System.
-- Canister Purge.
-- Base Engine.
-- Running out of fuel.

NOTE:
Running out of fuel may turn on the MIL and possibly store a Continuous Misfire DTC.

* Has the vehicle recently run out of fuel?

Yes
OBD II system OK. COMPLETE PCM RESET to clear DTCs (REFER to Section 2A, «Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reset»). RETURN vehicle to customer.

No
GO to «HD2».

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HD2 CHECK FOR OTHER CONTINUOUS MEMORY DTCS
====================================

NOTE:
Check for other Continuous Memory DTCs which could cause the misfire DTC.

Possible causes:

-- Camshaft Position Sensor (CID).
-- Octane Adjust (Oct Adj).
-- Ignition Coil Primary Circuit.
-- Knock Sensor (KS).

* Are there any other Continuous Memory DTCs present?

Yes
ADDRESS the next Continuous Memory DTC. DISREGARD Misfire DTC at this time. GO to Section 5A for «Powertrain DTC Charts».

No
GO to «HD3».

====================================
HD3 CHECK FOR ON-DEMAND SELF-TEST DTCS
====================================

NOTE:
Check for any key on, engine off DTCs which could cause the Misfire DTC.

* Are any Key On Engine Off or DTCs displayed on the Scan Tool?

Yes
GO to Section 5A, «Powertrain DTC Charts», and PROCEED as required.

No
GO to Pinpoint Test Step «JB1» to evaluate spark plugs and secondary wires. If OK, GO to «HD4».

I have not run out of gas ever, the car just started to run crappy? It did run pretty low once, but not empty. I guess the best thing to do is to change plugs and wires and go from there. I looked at the wires that are in there now are numbered, so I am assuming they are original. The plastic cover over the front plugs has bolts that looked a little stripped so I am assuming the cover has been off before. G Pappas, thanks for the input although I did not understand a whole lot of it. The guy at autozone only got the one code after several tries. What are the best plugs and wires to use? I got one input on motorcraft 9mm but the car is basically a daily driver, and I don't have a huge budget. Thanks for the help so far.

See the following post:
http://www.contour.org/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013174

I myself will be buying a pair of the Ford Motorsport wires (about $45-50) in the next few months (after I fix my CEL problem).

This morning when I started the car, same sputtering and studdering, and the CEL was flashng then stayed on after about a minute. Is this normal, or is something else wrong? I am going to do plugs and wires tomorrow.

Just ordered FMS wires from a place in Texas. $42 plus shipping, seemed like a good deal because they were nowhere to be found in Phoenix without a 10 day wait. What is a good plug to go with? I am thinking Autolite double platinums. Any other opinions. Also do I have to have a swivel socket to get the back plugs out? Auto shops were wanting $330 to do the job. Hope my car will last two more days till I get the wires.