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I think. I've been a car audio novice for about four months now and I think I'm making a lot of progress. The only thing I don't understand is why these car audio shops keep trying to push Monster Cable brand products. Anyway...

I've updated my plans a little. If you all recall, I'm the guy who seems to be obsessed with Alpine for no apparent reason. Since browsing here in the audio forum for a change, I've come to appreciate brands like Vifa, Dayton Loudspeaker, Xtant, A/D/S and so on. I'm happy with my Type-R variety setup (no rice intended) but the prices were more than I needed to pay for this level of SQ, apparently. Getting back to the plans again...

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Current Setup:
MRV-F340 - tested 61.3W continous, driving:
Front doors: 160W max, rated 40W continous 5.25" components
Rear doors: 200W max, rated 50W continous 6.50" components

MRV-T407 - tested 67.9W continous, driving
Package tray: 200W max, rated 50W continous 6x9 coaxials

Here's what I'm plotting to instruct Tune Town to do:
MRV-F340 driving:
Front doors: 6.50" components
Rear doors: Nuttin'!
Package Tray: 6x9 coaxials

Speakers will be backed by XTC baffles and vibration damping material from PartsExpress.com. Can't beat $3/sheet.

MRV-T407 - rated 200W continous, 4-ohm 2-ch bridged driving:
SWR-1241D dual voice coil, 4 ohm sub, rated 300W continous

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What I'd REALLY like to do is give my mid-range speakers something similar to what a sealed box is for a subwoofer. Has this been done, can it BE done and would YOU do it for your bottom dollar? Perhaps kick panels... but I have a clutch pedal to deal with...

Does anyone foresee any problems with these crazy ideas? I don't want to spend money on something that isn't going to make me go "WOW!" ...then again, everything is an improvement upon the CRAP job Safe & Sound in Elyria, OH has done. What a waste of time and money THEY are. I think I may have already mentioned that once or twice... oh well. They're closed up now anyway.

Ah, one last question. If I wanted to buy all of my wiring (RCA cables, speaker wire, etc. how do I go about measuring things like this? My amps are mounted to rear seat-backs and my speakers are in stock locations, for now.

.RMk..


'99 SVT, Silver Frost Open K&N w/ heat shield, various other, more unimportant mods.
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I can see my posts... anybody out there?

.RMk..


'99 SVT, Silver Frost Open K&N w/ heat shield, various other, more unimportant mods.
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Get you wire from Knu

Someone will post his website. As far as monster cable the reason they push it is because theres a huge mark up on it. I'm a Installer at Best buy i konw all about Monster, We use Rockford like 99% of the time.

any other ? just post

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2000 Contour SE 2.5L ATX - Toreador Red 2001 VW Golf GLS 2.0L MTX - Tornado Red Buy my possessed VCR!!
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I've been looking at KnuKonceptz.com stuff for awhile after reading the forums here... and I do still have more questions...

1. What about enclosures for midbass door speakers?
2. What about kick panels in an SVT (clutch pedal an issue?)
3. What length cables from KnuKonceptz.com?
4. Which cables are the absolute best there?
5. Which cables are TOO expensive?

Etc. and so on...

R>


'99 SVT, Silver Frost Open K&N w/ heat shield, various other, more unimportant mods.
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Originally posted by RMk:
I've been looking at KnuKonceptz.com stuff for awhile after reading the forums here... and I do still have more questions...

1. What about enclosures for midbass door speakers?
2. What about kick panels in an SVT (clutch pedal an issue?)
3. What length cables from KnuKonceptz.com?
4. Which cables are the absolute best there?
5. Which cables are TOO expensive?

Etc. and so on...

R>




1 & 2 Door enclosures are possible, but remember to make sure your windows still go down (or up for that matter too) For absolute best sound, I beleive in kick panels, although I dont have them in my SVT because I am too lazy. I did have a set in an Escort with manual tranny and it is a lot tighter fit then the SVT is.

3 Length of RCA cables - 5-6M (16.5-19.5ft) Speaker wire to front doors 14~15ft, rear door 8~9ft.

4 & 5 To sum up cables, Look for OFC (or silver if you want the absolute best) shielded, twisted pair, etc. Monster, Stinger etc are all more expensive because you are paying for their demo cars and mass marketing.

Depends on what your definition of expensive is. You can pay anywhere from $7 all the way up to $1200 for RCA cables (the $1200 set being hifi Home Theater)

Now for a bit of whoring - Our Krystal Kable will perform just like any RCA cable found at Best Buy or Circuit City in the $50-99 range. And they start at $11. You will not be dissapointed with any of our products.

The only difference you will notice is that your wallet (or your bum ) will not need the vasoline after your purchase. And if you are looking for something even better we have the Kasa Kable, which is the same cable, just silver plated. Silver is known for "brighter" mid and high frequencies.

I forgot to mention - Sorry to hear about the Safe-n-Sound expirience. They were certainly not the best bunch of installers. We actually use to supply their Bedford Hts store (they just bought our entry level RCA's and inline fuse holders) I believe some cables were sent to Elyria store. The Bedford store is still running....for now......

Last edited by KnuKonceptz; 07/01/03 06:38 AM.

Previous Owner of 00 SVT Contour #1077/2150 95 Contour SE '01 3L

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