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Hey guys, in the last 3 days I've notice the battery light coming on right when I get in the upper revs. The car starts fine and the headlights are bright....everything is good. Would this be a sign that the Alternator is beginning to wear out? I'm thinking it charges fine at low rpms....but the high rpms freak it out.

Oh....I have 165k on the original Alternator!!!!!


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Yup, most likely its the alternator.


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The light is coming on because of an "overcharge" indication. At those revs the alternator is puttin out current at the upper limits of the electrical system.

At least that was the problem with my old Mercury at 95,000 miles. The Voltage Regulator got stuck at peak output & I had to drive to the dealer with all lights, A/C, & everything turned on to keep from over-charging the battery. Dealer replaced the VR & the car ran fine ever since.

Should not be something to worry about unless you run above 6k rpm for extended periods.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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The brushes for the slip rings are prolly worn out. If that's the case, I would think that they might be replaceable much less expensively than a new alternator (although at 165K, it might be wise to just replace it with a new one, other things might be getting ready to go in there).


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Originally posted by KurtD:
The brushes for the slip rings are prolly worn out. If that's the case, I would think that they might be replaceable much less expensively than a new alternator (although at 165K, it might be wise to just replace it with a new one, other things might be getting ready to go in there).





Kurt is right on the money here...
I had my Alternator replaced at about 90,000 miles for the same reason.
When the brushes are worn, the springs are extended to their limit
and at high rpms you get brush bounce, causing the Alternator light to come on.
I replaced the alternator and a month later, the battery.
Now everything is working perfectly !

The Alternaotr in our cars, for some reason, cannot just have the voltage regulator and brushes changed in the field.
I think it is because all of the internal connections of the alternator are welded together.
It can only be sent out to be rebuilt.


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Thanks guys, that's what I thought the problem was. I figure 165k......it's probably time to replace.

For those that have replaced their Alternator....how much did you pay for the part itself and where did you buy it?

I'm selling the car in 3 months.............

Thanks



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Bought it from fordpartsonline I believe it was like $170. If your gonna replace it yourself, let me know, ive done it a bunch of times. It can be expensive to have done for you by a mechanic, as book time is like 4 hours. Doing it yourself, with the right tools, you can do it in about that same ammount of time too. Oh yeah, they hit the nail on the head... At high rpms, the alternator is turning about 21,000 rpms. so even with those brushes and rings just a little worn out or off center, they are gonna bounce off and loose contact. -Nick

Last edited by 99blacksesport; 06/20/03 07:20 PM.

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Thanks 99blacksesport

I just barely made it to work this morning, I believe the alternator is now done and I'm running strictly on battery. That sucks...but hey....I got 165 out of the original Alternator!!!

I'm going to call around to various parts places and see how much an alternator is and if they're in stock. I'm going to replace it myself but I need to locate a garage to work in....as it's the rainy season here!!!!

I'm sure I can get it done in about 4 hours too. I printed out the How To months ago!




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Just a couple of weeks ago my battery light was comming on in the higher rpm range and a day later my car just died out on my wife and when we push started it, it was hesitating really bad. It was the altenator. It cost me 249.00 at a local mechanic shop I wanted to change it myself but dang it's just in such a bad spot. Well that's my story and hopefully u can get to the roots of your problem. Oh I have a 98CSCT with 80,000 miles.


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