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My 99 SVT has about 70k on it now. I drive it for the commute every day on the highway over 30 miles each way. I'm noticing a grinding coming from the front left tire. Only at highway speeds does this happen. I can feel the wheel start to grind a little bit once I turn the wheel to the right and then it gets worse the sharper my turn gets. I would say that it's the bearings that are shot but I could be wrong. I just bought brand new tires installed yesterday with a 4 wheel alignment. This problem was happening before yesterday but it was not as bad. I think the alignment straightened up the tires more so now the problem is more noticeable. Well I'm pretty much ready for new front bearings. My main question is what is the best way to go about getting this fixed? I can definitely do this job myself and with the help of a friend who is a master technician. Does anyone have any recommendations or tips on doing this job themselves? Is one set of bearings better than others? I'm also worried that the housing that holds the bearings might be wore down quite a bit and it might need to be refinished. Could this be possible or am I worried about nothing? Also, any idea on the cost of parts and where the best place would be to find them? I never go to the local parts store for my SVT. If I did that, I might as well eat government cheese! Thanks guys
99 SVT Silver Frost Knauberized Doors, Xenon Headlights, TH Fix, KKM Filter, Resonator Removed, B&M Short Throw Shifter, Fidanza Flywheel, RAM HD Clutch --STEREO MODS-- Clarion HU with DSP module, RF 5x7's all around, 1 Kicker Sole-Baric L7 Woofer, 2 Kicker Comp 12s 2 MTX tweeters in dash, 1 MTX 4160 for highs, 1 RF 200ix for Solo-Baric 1 MTX 2160 for Comps 1 Farad Capacitor OEM battery & optimus gel cell.. Culguy76@hotmail.com
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Joined: Jun 2000
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Sounds for sure like a wheel bearing. Wheel bearings costs less than $40 bucks; however, in order to do the installation, you will need a special Ford wrench. I advise you to take it into the shop.
99 Range Rover 4.6 HSE Mystery Car??????
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althought I don't have any information about what bearing is best I do remember this from wen my father replaced his front wheel bearings on his 95 SE, they are just pressed into the knuckle. IIRC they are a cartrige type bearing, that is they are a unit which is just put in place, they are not built into the knuckle so i don't think there is machining to do, hope that helps
Son - 1995 Mystique LS Zetec 5-spd --> newest "mod" -> a girlfriend by my side Father - 1995 Contour SE Duratec 5-spd Mother - 1999 Contour SE Sport Duratec 5-spd My CEG Registry My Car My Home Page
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Might want to get a Haynes manual or Ford service CD so you know what to expect for the repair. I would try to line up a machine shop that has the equipment to press the bearing and hub out, and back into the knuckle before starting the job. The bearing itself is about 4" in diameter and was made by Timken IIRC.
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Thanks guys.. much appreciated.. Well I guess I'm going to spring for the sealed bearings. I'm gonna tackle the job with the techy friend of mine. He happens to have full access to all the tools we could possible need. I found that we will need to actually pull out the half-shaft so we can press the old bearing out and then press the new one back in. Getting the half-shaft out is going to definitely be a PIA. I'm off to also buy a chiltons manual to get all the torque specs needed. Anyone happen to have these handy? Thanks again folks..
99 SVT Silver Frost Knauberized Doors, Xenon Headlights, TH Fix, KKM Filter, Resonator Removed, B&M Short Throw Shifter, Fidanza Flywheel, RAM HD Clutch --STEREO MODS-- Clarion HU with DSP module, RF 5x7's all around, 1 Kicker Sole-Baric L7 Woofer, 2 Kicker Comp 12s 2 MTX tweeters in dash, 1 MTX 4160 for highs, 1 RF 200ix for Solo-Baric 1 MTX 2160 for Comps 1 Farad Capacitor OEM battery & optimus gel cell.. Culguy76@hotmail.com
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Wheel Bearings! I had the same prob w/ my E1 SVT w/ 70K miles. Just had both front wheel bearings replaced. Grinding is gone.
Tristen Silver E1 SVT
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Well I replaced the bearings and the drivers side hub. I had spun the bearing because the drivers side bearing siezed up and the hub was spinning on it. Well even after I replaced it all and got it all back together, the noise is still there. I'm pissed!!! I've seen some other threads on the rear wheel bearing going bad as well but I'm almost positive that the noise is coming from the front drivers side. I'm starting to think that it might be the tires that are bad. I recently had an alignment done with a tire rotation. That's when I noticed the problem. When I disassembled the steering knuckle, I could see rust all over the drivers side bearing so it was indeed shot. One would think that's the cause of my vibration. The tires only have 10k miles on them. I'm wondering if Sears might warranty tires since they are going bad so quickly. Of course, if that's the case. I'm gonna try and see what they say..
99 SVT Silver Frost Knauberized Doors, Xenon Headlights, TH Fix, KKM Filter, Resonator Removed, B&M Short Throw Shifter, Fidanza Flywheel, RAM HD Clutch --STEREO MODS-- Clarion HU with DSP module, RF 5x7's all around, 1 Kicker Sole-Baric L7 Woofer, 2 Kicker Comp 12s 2 MTX tweeters in dash, 1 MTX 4160 for highs, 1 RF 200ix for Solo-Baric 1 MTX 2160 for Comps 1 Farad Capacitor OEM battery & optimus gel cell.. Culguy76@hotmail.com
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Replaced both front ones around 30K!! 
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Wow.. what an afternoon.. I got off early for a suppoena in court and that got continued so I figured I would investigate my ongoing problem with the wheels vibrating still. Had the tires checked, not the problem. Had Ford look at it and they wanted to use "chassis ears" to find the problem.. and.. it would only cost $150.. Next next who's next?? So I took it to Midas.. Those guys will do anything for a pack of smokes.. They lifted the car in the air and we could feel the drivers side tire wobble a little bit. It had a little bit of play in it still. We found that my wheel hub nut torque was off by about 50 ft lbs. The accuracy on the torque wrench I used was off by quite a bit. They also noticed that the tie rod end was no good. That's where the extra "play" was coming from. I'm in the process of replacing it now - I'm on a break now!! I'll soon see if that is definitely the problem. The part was only $30 at ford so why not..
99 SVT Silver Frost Knauberized Doors, Xenon Headlights, TH Fix, KKM Filter, Resonator Removed, B&M Short Throw Shifter, Fidanza Flywheel, RAM HD Clutch --STEREO MODS-- Clarion HU with DSP module, RF 5x7's all around, 1 Kicker Sole-Baric L7 Woofer, 2 Kicker Comp 12s 2 MTX tweeters in dash, 1 MTX 4160 for highs, 1 RF 200ix for Solo-Baric 1 MTX 2160 for Comps 1 Farad Capacitor OEM battery & optimus gel cell.. Culguy76@hotmail.com
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