Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting electrical problems after jump-start

Last week my wife left the lights on all day, and the battery ran down. She had a friend jump-start the car, but now, although it runs fine, (1) the rear defroster doesn't work; (2) the wipers don't work on intermittent or with the washers (but work on other switch positions; and (3) the interior lights will sometimes not go out when the door is closed. I've checked the fuses, and they're okay. Everything else (gauges, radio, power locks/windows/mirrors/sunroof, headlights/rear lights) works. Could the jump have fried something (like part of the main computer)? Is there a common circuit that the non-working stuff is on? And does anyone have a suggestion on how to fix this, short of the dealer? Thanks....

i have been jump starting cars for over 40 yrs. and never had a problem with it,, but if you look in any service book it will tell you that you should not jump start a car, or it tells you exactly how it is done... there must be a reason for this,, good possiblity that you have a problem from the jump start?????
maybe you could take the car to an automotive electrical shop and get the job done......gonna be cheaper than the dealer..

oh baby I can feel the pain. The instructions for jump start are very specific for GOOD reasons. The reasons start adding up like this:
Alternator$$$
PCM$$$$$
troubleshooting$$
misc fried parts$$
personal injury$$$$$$$$

I have been the jump start king for many years and have paid for it dearly with repeated repairs to my car. Both cars should be off. If the good car is running then when the other car starts, there will be nasty electrical feed back as both alternators dual over which will charge the dead battery...big time electrical feedback. Shortes the life of parts or fries them.

The biz about using - connection to engine block is to protect you from the chances of an exploding battery. Been there too. Don't wanna go back.

When I learned these lessons, my problems went away. The funny part is hardly anyone believes me when I tell them what to do. After I tell them about the exploding battery then they shut up.

I gave my wife an instruction sheet and told her that if anyone wanting to help her does not want to do it her way then DON'T LET THEM HELP YOU BECAUSE THEY ARE NOT HELLPING YOU!!!!!

Perform the timer module self-test that I describe in this thread: timer module self-test

Horseydug.
Your good, I just accidentally ran across this CTM in the Ford CD looking for something else.
Got to keep this in the my memory bank---if it would only stay where I filed it or is remembering where I filed it.
Operation of the Central Timer Module (CTM)

â?? Windshield wipers

â?? Heated rear window

â?? Entry illumination

â?? Lights-on warning chime unit

â?? Safety belt warning

Paul
Oh yeah having two (or more whatevers) to swap parts and compare, makes it whole lot quicker/easier Eh? Or is A? I've spent many summers in the UP and talk to many Hams in Canada. I like using "A", it seems more personable. Just my friendly opinion!

It sounds like this CTM module might be a good candidate for a "Mov" install on it's power input????
I've have had good luck with using 3ea 130la20a's in my 120 AC outlets. Neutral to ground, hot to ground and one across hot and neutral. Back in 1981 lighnting hits the Hydro (as you call it?) All devices that where plugged into those protected outlets never have failed. Everthing else in the house was zapped or died weeks or months later. I was convinced. However I don't have much experience with DC circuits, the thing I've noticed that telephony vendors in the early 90's started applying these to their plug-in cards/modules & etc.

You know, I never followed up on this here, but I replaced the timer module per Horseydug's suggestion, and the car works fine now. Belated thanks to Horseydug!