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Hi All. I just bought the Equus/Innova 3100 OBDII code reader (for $144.99 from www.jeepersandcreepers.com , ordered Mon morning at 1am, arrived today (Tuesday) -- pretty good service!) and pulled the following codes out of my '98 V6 after the CEL went on solid about two weeks ago: P0133: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1 Sensor 1) P0171: System Too Lean (Bank 1) P1131: Lack of HO2S11 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean Sounds like I need new O2 sensors ... my question is, do I need two (just the "befores") or four, and where can I get them at a good price, mail-order? Thanks,
Andrew '98 Contour V6 AT bone-stock, 85,000 miles
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When I was getting that same set of codes, intermittently, it turned out to be, not the sensor itself, but a dirty connector. Cleaning the connector made the problem go away. You might wanna try the same before you invest in new sensors. You wouldn't be able to tell this with your code reader, but using Alex Peper's CarCode product, I was able to diagnose this problem by watching a live graph of the O 2 sensor readings. They would mostly work correctly, but occasionally drop to zero and stay there for a while. Jiggling the connector made them return to normal. In any event, I believe the codes you're getting indicate a problem only with one sensor, which would be the Bank 1 (on the Duratec, is that the bank toward the front of the car, or toward the firewall?) sensor before the precat.
{I do hate spam, but that isn't really part of my email address. Remove the string ?HatesSpam? from the email address ?BobHatesSpam@blaylock.to? to email me. No advertisements. Spammers will be dealt with very harshly!} ------- Moonlight Blue 1996 Mercury Mystique GS , Zetec engine, ATX. No mods. (Well, OK, one mod. Before I got rid of my previous car, a 1994 Tempo, I swapped radios. I liked the Tempo's radio better. That counts as a mod, doesn't it? I also kept one of my Tempo's wheels to use as a spare. I hate those stupid ?compact? spares that come with modern cars. Does this count as a mod? If so, I guess I have two mods. Replaced burned/melted blower switch and connector on 19 February 2002 with a 1P3T toggle switch from Marvac and a Molex connector from Rat Shack; I guess this now makes three mods.)
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Hi Bob.
Thanks for the input re the bad connector. I'll try that.
How do you like Alex's product? I had looked at it, but wasn't crazy about lugging my laptop around just to find fault codes. But I can appreciate how the run-time O2 sensor graphs could be very useful ...
According to other posts I've read, it's the sensor closer to the firewall, pre-cat.
Regards,
Andrew '98 Contour V6 AT bone-stock, 85,000 miles
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Well, I took Bob's advice and cleaned the contacts of the rear pre-cat O2 sensor ... after clearing the codes, it's been 40 miles without incident ... wonder if it will last ...
Andrew '98 Contour V6 AT bone-stock, 85,000 miles
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Lance Kinley CEG Webmaster 95SE, "Official CEG Beater" Quaife, SVT parts, ST200 wheels, SS Y-pipe I perceive you to be a stand-up, rational individual...
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I reset the codes, and lo and behold, the CEL stayed off ... through one fill-up ... until exactly 100 miles (!) later. Now it's back, with an 1131 code. I suspect the other two codes will follow.
So, I suspect that I really do have a dying heated O2 sensor. Will replace next week. Car has 81,000 miles.
Andrew '98 Contour V6 AT bone-stock, 85,000 miles
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Well, this is getting interesting ... I ordered the new HO2 sensors last week, and was gonna put them in this coming Saturday .. the CEL is back on (after I cleared the codes).
On Sunday (i.e. last Sunday, after I got the parts but before I've had a chance to put them in), my wife tells me that she was at a stoplight, the car suddenly shuddered quite noticeably for 3-5 seconds, and then the CEL went out! And it's stayed off since then.
So for now I'm gonna wait and leave the parts in their boxes ...
This is very weird ...
Andrew '98 Contour V6 AT bone-stock, 85,000 miles
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Joined: Jan 2002
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Codes don't tell you what parts to replace, they only tell what sensor is reading a problem. A service manual should give you the diagnostic tests to run with particular codes. Also, the codes will come back after about 100 miles or so because it takes the computer several drive cycles before it registers codes. And, the way most people drive, a few drive cycles could take up to 2 weeks. You can replace the sensors, but they likely aren't the problem. I wish I knew more so I could help you. But, honestly, reading codes and replacing parts is a good way to waste money.
99 Silver SVT with: lowered-eibach springs, piaa fog lights in upper mesh grill, K&N filter, tinted, flowmaster mufflers, straight-piped cat(temporarily w/ca. for emissions), custom spoiler
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I rec. changing f.filter,cleaning inj.and check the cats...app.30.00
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Originally posted by Mike D UMBC SVT: But, honestly, reading codes and replacing parts is a good way to waste money. Why, isn't that what the $tealer does? 
1996 Contour SE Sedan 4D (Royal Blue) Duratec V6 2.5L 24-valve DOHC Automatic 75,000 miles No Mods (unless you call the DMD a mod) Replaced EGR valve (gunked up), EVR (EGR VR), PCV valve, and evaporative emissions hose (cracked).
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