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PO401 EGR Valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)

The EGR valve is bolted to the upper intake on the drivers side near the back. The top looks like a UFO. Problems here will reduce gas mileage and cause pinging.

The PCM (powertrain Control Module) calculates how much EGR is needed as you drive. It sends electric pulses to the EVR (EGR Vacuum Regulator) which opens allowing a controlled ammount of engine vacuum to go to the EGR valve. The vacuum pulls the EGR valve open allowing exhaust gas to pass from the exhaust manifold, through the EGR tube, to the intake manifold and on into the engine. As the gasses pass through the EGR tube they go through an orifice. Two smaller hoses connect from both sides of the orifice to the DPFE sensor (Differential Pressure Feedback EGR). The DPFE reports back to the PCM the ammount of EGR gasses passing through the tube so that the flow can be controlled. This is a closed feedback system.

Following me???

Often as the EGR gasses cool down they deposit soot which eventually blocks the system. This usually happens right behind the Throttle Body. Only solution there, is to remove the TB and scrape the deposits out.

The EVR (black plastic device just to the drivers side of the coil pack) can leak when it gets old. If so it must be replaced.

The DPFE (way down on the back of the engine) can also fail.

The vacuum hoses and wiring to the sensors can also fail.

Blocked EGR passages are very common and the best place to start. Do a search for various ideas at testing or repair.



As for the catalytic converter, a back-pressure test is the only test you are likely to be able to do at home.
Be sure to read this


You probably have some other issues also. Be sure to read the FAQ's on the IAC, IMRC, and cleaning the MAF.

This seems like a repair needed with some experience. What would you think, if someone who doesnt know too much about what their doing (someone, being me), and if they read FAQs, and How-Tos on this page and other places, could it be done with regular tools? Thanks for your help.

Others have done it, maybe took them a while.
Sometimes they forget to put things back.
Worst is people who break things, get mad, then break more.

Get a manual and read. Get a friend to help you get started.
Preferably one who knows their limits.

Gotta get your hands dirty sometime.

You should have a 1/4 inch metric socket set, a 3/8 inch metric socket set, metric wrenches and various common hand tools. You don't need to but everything there is, but don't rely on Vise-grips either.

Can't say for sure, put you may have a couple issues. The cold temperature bucking, surging, stall could be the Mass Air Flow sensor. I had a similar problem with my daughter's 95 Contour Duratec V6. Only happened below freezing. After a few futile actions by the dealer, and no definitive code, they called over a young technician who went thru extensive Ford training courses. He drove it, it did it, and he was confident that the filament in the MAF was not properly sensing the change in the air mass due to cold air. Good news, was that it only took 15 minutes to change out, but the item was a bit expensive (and only available thru Ford).
It fixed my problem permanently.
(By the way, oxygen sensors are common failures on these engines at 55-60K, CEL will light) Good luck.
Al

My first thoughts were that it has to be sensors. This has to be because it gets like this only when its very cold, and yes, i've noticed when it is infact below freezing! I really hope that its just that. How expensive was it by the way? If it was just a sensor, can't I just do it myself?

My dealer installed the MAF sensor early in 2001. The part cost $171 at that time. Part Number was F5RZ-12B579-C.

You can buy them direct from Ford dealers at discounted prices on the internet at www.parts.com

This dealer site is an example: http://www.parts.com/index.cfm?action=goToStoreFront&sfid=213843

In search block, put in: Mass air flow sensor

As far a installation, the device is a large aluminum tubular unit (about size of a coffee mug)that attaches with a flange on one side, and hose clamp on other. It is inline between the air cleaner and the trottle body. There is an electrical connector that attaches to it. Looks simple to replace. I do not know if any adjustments required after installation.

I'm not sure if you can return the part (electrical) if this is not the solution for your problem. Most parts stores won't let you return electrical devices (unless wrong or defective).

Good luck
Al