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Joined: Jun 2003
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I'm not gonna type this out again so here you guys go.. Problems
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Joined: Nov 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Good info on that, Mr Capaldi Jr.  Essentially you shorten the distance between the tranny and the wheel which reduces the amount of plunge on the inner Tripod Joint. Hence the catastrohpic failure. Why not just install camber plates. I have a group buy on them. They cost $136 for a pair. The funny thing is I have 6 pairs that I can't sell (for something that works and solves a lot of problems like excessive camber and tire wear), and you want to try and sell tubular A-arms that don't work and would probably cost a fortune? Good luck!
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 339
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CEG\'er
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I would not want to try and adjust camber at the lower part of the front suspension for the reasons C.Capaldi stated. Stazi's camber plates in conjuntion with a stiffer a-arm with better less wear prone inner mounting hardware would be of interest. Oh wait I forgot I'm already working on some...
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Joined: Aug 2002
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OP
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Stazi, First of all I gotta applaud you to come bashing just to sell your own product.  I don't know if you have read his post but, Craig was saying "you start to run any thing mre than 2 degrees you have problems with the half shafts inward and outward plunge" The only springs which would effect the camber by more than negative 2 degrees would be the Ground control coil overs at the lowest setting... The toe setting is the biggest reason that tires get ruined after lowering the car the factory max tollerence for the camber in the front is -1.7 and I beleive that by dialing 1 degree positive with the control arms will bring the camber to the factory range with any springs for the contour/cougars... Coming here and saying that I am trying to sell tubular control arms that don't work just to sell your camber kits it just stupid...
3.0 14.392@97.237 2.302 60ft
OEM 4-bolt LCA's $105 each
Watch me go
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Joined: Jun 2003
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Newbie
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Didn't wanna open a huge can of worms here  I was tryin to help people out so the same mistakes aren't made twice! Now Stazi, u actually make "camber plates", or do you have camber adjustment/alignment shims? I was just going to make a set like Leo's, but as I'm sure you know you gotta basically cut the towers like a pizza to put flat plates (top & bottom), then make your adjustment plate. Where can I find pics of yours? I bascially need something that is adjustable say to 4-5 degrees of camber.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 331
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Originally posted by ccapaldi: Didn't wanna open a huge can of worms here I was tryin to help people out so the same mistakes aren't made twice! Now Stazi, u actually make "camber plates", or do you have camber adjustment/alignment shims? I was just going to make a set like Leo's, but as I'm sure you know you gotta basically cut the towers like a pizza to put flat plates (top & bottom), then make your adjustment plate. Where can I find pics of yours? I bascially need something that is adjustable say to 4-5 degrees of camber.
The ones that Stazi is selling are the same ones that can be found on SPmotorsports.com, though Stazi's price is better. IIRC, I think the max amount of camber adjustment is right around 2 degrees (maybe a bit more) with this setup.
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Joined: Oct 2000
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I think the point of the NECO post is that adjusting camber at the a-arm is a bad idea, not that tubular control arms won't work. I don't think Stazi is bashing your product (which, btw, does not yet exist.)
Knowing the problems, it seems as if the best choice would be to make the tubular a-arms as simple as possible, and if camber is a concern, get the adjustable plates from Stazi or BAT. This would allow the arms to be made and sold more cheaply, and leave the cost of adding camber adjustment separate, and available to those who need it.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 937
Veteran CEG\'er
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Tubular control arms with stock geometry and polyurethane bushings = 1 sold set to me (if the price is not grossly greater than stock! - approx $300/set  ). I happily have a set of adjustable camber plates from Anastazi and think that aftermarket arms with camber plates would be a terrific combination. Just a thought, but I think someone is unintentionally starting to sound too aggressive about unsold merchandise... On the other hand, people who make a commitment to purchase and then back out piss-off EVERYONE. If you let someone go at risk based on your word, you sure as hell should stand behind it.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Joined: Aug 2000
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Originally posted by RogerB: it seems as if the best choice would be to make the tubular a-arms as simple as possible
agreed
i might be interested, btw
Derek
Scion xB 5-spd
Previous: 2000 Silver Frost SVT
Please share the road with cyclists.
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Joined: Oct 2000
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Originally posted by Derk2000: Originally posted by RogerB: it seems as if the best choice would be to make the tubular a-arms as simple as possible
agreed
i might be interested, btw
And just to add, here. The main goal of such a piece, besides stiffness, is to reduce unsprung weight. Which it seems would be another argument for simplicity.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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