Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Clutch

I am new to this group, having just added a 98 SVT to my collection about a week ago. Great automobile! My SVT is in superb shape; I installed new right front wheel bearings to get rid of the growl and intstalled new brake pads all around.
My problem seems heat related but may not be. At times, the clutch does not release making it near impossible to shift gears. I had a new Corvair in 1960 and, since they were prone to break clutch cables, I have had to drive my SVT "clutchless" on a couple occasions, a procedure all Corvair owners had to master.
I suspect I need to bleed the clutch master/slave system and need your advice on the procedure. If you suspect my problem to be elsewhere, I sure would appreciate your advice.
Thanks!
John

It sounds like you are on the right track. The clutch shares the same reservoir with the brake master cylinder. There is a hose that goes off from that to the clutch master cylinder. The slave cylinder is inside the bell housing. The bleed port is on top of the bell housing. It helps to remove the air filter housing and air intake to the throttle body to find it. Once you know where it is, you may be able to find it without, but you may still prefer to remove it.

Bleeding is similar to bleeding the brakes, but the pedal will never become hard like a brake pedal. If you have someone pumping the pedal for you, have them pump several times then hold the pedal down while you crack the bleeder open, then close the bleeder before they release the pedal. You will need to do this several times. You may also have a faulty master or slave, but they don't seem to give much trouble.

Welcome aboard, from the Great White North.

I'm an ATX guy myself but I've brought to front page an earlier thread you might find of interest.
Add's a little re other's experiences to the always clear info given by Big Jim.

Regards.

My thanks to Big Jim and horseydug. I removed the air cleaner and base, which seemed to involve less effort than taking out the battery. I found the bleeder valve almost immediately, got an 8mm wrench and my daughter (to pump & hold) and breezed right through the procedure. It probably took less than ten minutes for the whole operation.
Note: there was no clip on my bleeder which, no doubt, means it has been done before; clutch engagement has moved from near top of pedal to about halfway. That makes me happy! I really won't know if this solves my problem completely until I drive it enough to heat things up.
Thanks again to all of you.
John