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So what are people getting (oil pressure) with 5w-30, are you saying about 25psi (crusing speed) ok?
Eric
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Originally posted by Andy W.:
The reason the PSI dropped is because the 5w-30 flows better. All you are going to do with the heavy oil is blow seals and gaskets. The higher PSI is because it's not flowing nearly as well. A PSI that high is similar to someone having a blockage. Sorry but you are just plain stupid for running such a thick oil and I'm sure your gas milage is hurting to prove it! Higher PSI is bad, but so is 0!
-Andy
Well, Andy can be a bit brutal but he's right. If the engine was meant to run 15W-50 (which is diesel engine type oil) then Ford would put that in your owner's manual. That oil is entirely too thick for the Duratec, at any ambient condition (Florida, Death Valley, whatever).
I've seen Big Jim post about Duratecs that have encountered problems directly related to lubrication on a steady diet of 10W-30 in California.
But hey, if you think it's the right thing to do, don't let me tell you otherwise. It's your car after all.
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With 40k miles on the motor, which oil would be the best? I had 10W 30 put in on my last oil change, would it be safe to use 5W 30?
'99 Silver SVT
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being in florida with the hot weather of summer approaching 10W-30 shouldn't be a problem. However, there is a chart in the owners manual showing which oil viscosity grades are recommended for given ambient temperatures. I remember that the 5W-30 is listed as the recommended oil across the temperature board, while the 10W-30 was recommended for ambient temperatures above 60 degrees F or so.
The numbers associated with a multi-grade oil are as such. the first number dictates the oil's cold flow charagteristic measured at (if I remember correctly) 20 degrees F. The second number dictates the oil's flow characteristic while hot 120 degrees F sounds familiar.
So if I'm right, then that would lead me to believe that both 5W-30 and 10W-30 should flow the same when hot. Its just that the 5W-30 won't get as thick in the cold as the 10W-30.
Its also my understanding that the geater the difference between the 2 numbers the less the oil's viscosity will change as its temperature changes. This is also referred to as viscosity index.
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Not bring a post back from the dead but, I'm sure thre second # is the ammount of detergents in the oil. for example: 5W - 30 means 5weight - 30 detergent grade
detergents are used in engine oils to protect the level of viscosity and to help prevent thermal breakdown.
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Originally posted by JD60538:
Not bring a post back from the dead but, I'm sure thre second # is the ammount of detergents in the oil. for example: 5W - 30 means 5weight - 30 detergent grade
detergents are used in engine oils to protect the level of viscosity and to help prevent thermal breakdown.
WHAT?????? 
I thought it was the weight of the oil Vs. the viscosity.....Where did you get detergent level??? Or was that something you guessed? 
Roz
Last edited by Roz 1999 SVT-C; 08/15/03 10:25 PM.
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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All you need to know. I would have posted the info direct, but it is too much to post for this topic. -------->Seriously Click This-------> Engine Oils That's all she wrote. -Bishop
*Invisible Hero*
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Keep It Real.
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Originally posted by JD60538:
Not bring a post back from the dead but, I'm sure thre second # is the ammount of detergents in the oil. for example: 5W - 30 means 5weight - 30 detergent grade
detergents are used in engine oils to protect the level of viscosity and to help prevent thermal breakdown.
5W-30 is NOT detergent level. It means 5 Weight under Winter conditions (cold) and 30 Weight under Hot conditions. Also called multi-viscosity. There is a more technical description of the temperatures and methods used for measuring viscosity, but this is good enough for this discussion. What it means that at startup (cold engine) the oil flows well, but remains thick enough at high (warm/hot engine)temperatures to continue lubricating.
Detergent levels (as well as breakdown properties, film strength, etc) are determined by the API rating on the top of the can. these are 2 letter codes ( SF, SG, CC, CD, etc). The "C" ratings are for deisel engines and the "S" ratings for gasoline. In general, engines with oil filters use a detergent oil (detergent keeps dirt suspended in the oil, to be removed by the filter, non filtered engines (most lawn mower engines and alike) need non detergent, so the dirt settles out of the oil.
Finally, as many said in this thread, higher weight oil not only lubricates less (in our engines), but also carries away less heat. Believe it or not, the bearings do not require a lot of oil for lubrication. The most important function for the oil is cooling. Oil cools the bearings and the underside of the pistons. A thicker oil is not able to reach critical areas and does not carry heat as well. Hot bearings=shorter life. It may reduce bearing life significantly.
The original poster had 25 PSI now because his bearings may be significantly more worn than if he had used the 5W-30 recommended.
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can i ask why u guys r running thicker oils in your svts when 5-30 is the ford recommended oil. i run amsoil 0-30 so it flows quicker in winter. but i run yearround. i would not feel good running 15-50. have u had any problems? the thinner oil might find cracks to leak thru that the thicker oil might not have gotten thru. any signs of that yet?
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If you want to do a little research, with specific specifications on cold and hot viscosities of dino and synthetic at various grades, I highly recommend studying http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/Product_Information/Engine_Oils_Automotive_Collection.aspLots of great information... For example, you'll learn that a dino 5W-30 offers exactly the same viscosity throughout an engine's normal warm operating temperature range as a synthetic 10W-30. Not saying the same protection of course.
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