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Like when you spell it out?
my friend told me that if a sub is 500 watts rms then thats how much it is without an amp...but with an amp it can run up to...lets say 1000 watts peak
i thought that if you had a 500 watts rms sub then u needed to run it at 450 watts rms or something like that
i'm stupid when it comes to audio stuff.
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Well from what I understand the RMS pretty much means thats how much power it can handle continuesly unlike peak power it can only handle it for short burst. IF you where to play it at peak for awhile it would blow your sub or at least thats how I understand it. If Iam wroung I am pretty sure someone will correct me on this.
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RMS is the recommended continous wattage (w/ amp otherwise the sub isn't really gonna make much sound  ). on a sub like any JL makes, they're under rated a little, like the sub i have w/ 75 watt RMS, i run it at ~135 watts. maybe i run a little too much but it's still not really distorted. the max wattage is just that, the max it can handle for a burst (there are amps you can buy that will deliver big amounts of power for short intervals). Most manufacturers void your warranty if they find you've gone over these numbers. Though I believe JL still warranties their subs as long as you don't go way far past RMS. Like my sub, if it was new, it would still probably be covered under warranty.
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For what it's worth, RMS stands for Root Mean Square, a mathematical method used in measuring AC voltage.
Overpowering a speaker would probably fry the voice coil eventually.
Tom
98 LX (Zetec/ATX)
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CEG\'er
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Originally posted by cowgod:
For what it's worth, RMS stands for Root Mean Square, a mathematical method used in measuring AC voltage.
Overpowering a speaker would probably fry the voice coil eventually.
Yup, it overheats then starts to warp.
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so if I had a sub that was 500 watts rms its not smart to have a amp powering it at 600 watts...but its better to have it runnin around 450 watts
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It's better to have a 600 watt amp running your 500 rms sub than a 450 watt amp because you get more clean power. Use the higher power amp and turn down the gain, as apposed to maxing out the smaller amp and have it clip. Also, I wouldn't worry about running 600 watts to the sub, because most music isn't loud enough to create that 1000 watts max out of a 600 rms amp. Just listen for too much distortion and adjust accordingly.
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Originally posted by cowgod:
For what it's worth, RMS stands for Root Mean Square, a mathematical method used in measuring AC voltage.
Overpowering a speaker would probably fry the voice coil eventually.
Correct a mundo!
And if you think about it the audio signal is an AC (alternating current) signal. The speaker moves in and out in reponse to polarity changes caused by that AC signal.
RMS would be a sort of average current, or a continuous current, both the positive and the negative and is an important measurement in AC. If you add up all the currents together, both positive and negative then you will get close to zero! We know that isn't the case because for a brief moment the current is positive, then goes back negative. Think of a sine wave where the negative peaks (on the bottom) are flipped up to the positive side, then an average line drawn across all the peaks. THAT is the RMS value.
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An alternating current of 110vac will provide same energy dissapation thru' a resistor as 110vdc. This even though ac sine wave varies from zero to greater than 110 volts then to zero, then reverses, as described in prior post.
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exactly what I was thinking 
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