Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Engine needs to be replaced at 25K??

With your permission I have a story to tell about another car which had an awful engine knock, and a happy ending.
On a 4 cyl FWD car w/o fuel injection I noticed that one brass screw was missing from the choke butterfly (remember those?) The noise seemed to be coming from cyl #1. I took out the spark plug and with the engine off, I poked all around the cyl with a stiff piece of wire. Then I started the engine and idles for a short period of time with the spark plug out. The screw must have been poked loose and flew out the spark plug hole. I reassembled the car and the noise was gone and stayed that way for at least the next 40K miles. I was very lucky!

Just wanted to follow-up with everyone... we're still chasing down the source of the misfire. I took it to my usual mechanic with my fingers crossed about the plugs and the wires, but he thinks it's the cams. Unfortunately, he doesn't do major engine work, but it's on its way to another shop.

So, no happy ending yet, but this sounds A LOT better than replacing the engine. I still have my fingers crossed.

Thanks to everyone for your help and I'll let you know what we find out.

Jenna

bad cams...ewww. what a biatch...wouldnt it be easier and possibly cheaper for a new engine?

Is it cheaper to replace the whole thing?? We were hoping this route would be less. If not, that might explain why Ford was so quick to jump on the new engine diagnosis.

in 3 years of reading posts on this forum ive never heard of one cam or timing chain going south on our motors.

My friend, just took his mothers Countor GL in for a recall and they told him he needs a new motor. The ac compressor siezed, and the crank angle sensor came unplugged (We still believe this was done on purpose by them) Anyway, the engine was fine, it seems if they don't want to put any time into finding a problem, they throw a new motor at it. obviously fixing any engine related problems.

25K miles. Shouldn't that still be under some kind of warrentee?

Just my $0.02

30.9k miles on my '00 SVT and it's getting a new long block - under warranty thank goodness. I have a similar rattle that appears under light throttle (rpm and gear independent.)

Technicians removed the oil pan (to verify that I have been taking care of it since I didn't keep my oil purchases) and the valve covers. They could not find anything that would indicate this problem. So, the Service Manager decided to order a new motor.

I just put a DMD on it, as well; however, it was after the noise first occured. However, it was sporatic, mainly when good and hot.

After the DMD it was evident consistently.

I noticed the engine smooth out quite a bit with the DMD on it. I hope it's a '03 Duratec with the DMD and new oil pan, but I won't hold my breath.


Good luck.

Regards,
David

I had this problem on a 98 Dodge Caravan. Thing would run rough and make a HORRIBLE noise. It did have 89k miles on, however.

Turns out there was metal in the oil pan. Used a magnet and found it was Steel (Rod or Wrist Pin, Piston is Aluminum). Never tore the engine down (got rid of it with some Lucas and 60 Weight Oil... ), but the estimate was a Wrist Pin.

A trick you can try is to take a screwdriver, place it on the valve cover, then put your ear to it. Move it around and you should be able to isolate the Knocking.

Good luck, I was in for a new engine as well.