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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 32
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 32 |
With your permission I have a story to tell about another car which had an awful engine knock, and a happy ending. On a 4 cyl FWD car w/o fuel injection I noticed that one brass screw was missing from the choke butterfly (remember those?) The noise seemed to be coming from cyl #1. I took out the spark plug and with the engine off, I poked all around the cyl with a stiff piece of wire. Then I started the engine and idles for a short period of time with the spark plug out. The screw must have been poked loose and flew out the spark plug hole. I reassembled the car and the noise was gone and stayed that way for at least the next 40K miles. I was very lucky!
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4
Newbie
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OP
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4 |
Just wanted to follow-up with everyone... we're still chasing down the source of the misfire. I took it to my usual mechanic with my fingers crossed about the plugs and the wires, but he thinks it's the cams. Unfortunately, he doesn't do major engine work, but it's on its way to another shop. So, no happy ending yet, but this sounds A LOT better than replacing the engine. I still have my fingers crossed.  Thanks to everyone for your help and I'll let you know what we find out. Jenna
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 716
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 716 |
bad cams...ewww. what a biatch...wouldnt it be easier and possibly cheaper for a new engine?
95 GL MTX Zetec, Carbon Fiber hood:
*neoprene seat covers
*new SVT rear bumper 
*Proud Owner of 1962 Chevy Corvette 427
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4
Newbie
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OP
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4 |
Is it cheaper to replace the whole thing?? We were hoping this route would be less. If not, that might explain why Ford was so quick to jump on the new engine diagnosis.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,469
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,469 |
in 3 years of reading posts on this forum ive never heard of one cam or timing chain going south on our motors.
98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake, b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB, Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's.
"I say what I mean and I do what i say"
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 30
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 30 |
My friend, just took his mothers Countor GL in for a recall and they told him he needs a new motor. The ac compressor siezed, and the crank angle sensor came unplugged (We still believe this was done on purpose by them) Anyway, the engine was fine, it seems if they don't want to put any time into finding a problem, they throw a new motor at it. obviously fixing any engine related problems.
25K miles. Shouldn't that still be under some kind of warrentee?
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
95 SE V6 2.5L DOHC
5MTX, Post-98 Trunk Lid, Custom Air Intake
240K+ still counting
Impregnated Pontiac D.I.C In Dash
Pioneer KEH-5500
Crunch 200 AMP
2 15 Cerwin Vega DVC
I love my 'tour!!!
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,603
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,603 |
Originally posted by dubkatz: in 3 years of reading posts on this forum ive never heard of one cam or timing chain going south on our motors.
nossvttour just swapped out his engine because at 79,000 miles the timing chains slipped.
If it is going to happen, it will happen on a 95 Duratec. In 96, the design of the tensioners, guides and front engine timing cover where changed. So obviously any 96 or newer Duratecs don't suffer from this problem, and many of them have not gotten enough mileage on them to cause this problem to happen until now.
Pete...
2004 Mercury Marauder 300A
Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER
DOB 10/31/2003
DOP 1/2/2004
www.mercurymarauder.net
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 834
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 834 |
Originally posted by RoadRunner: Originally posted by dubkatz: in 3 years of reading posts on this forum ive never heard of one cam or timing chain going south on our motors.
nossvttour just swapped out his engine because at 79,000 miles the timing chains slipped.
If it is going to happen, it will happen on a 95 Duratec. In 96, the design of the tensioners, guides and front engine timing cover where changed. So obviously any 96 or newer Duratecs don't suffer from this problem, and many of them have not gotten enough mileage on them to cause this problem to happen until now.
Yep PEte is right..... with 77k miles on my car the timing chain tensoinr went bad. I could not believe it with such low miles for a 95 contour but it did. Jenna you might want to look into a possible engine swap. I think if u doa straight up swap it would cost you less then replacing the cams. I did a swap motor and labor for about 1000$. The motor i got had only 20k on it. But on top of that i threw ina few other goodies to go with the more powerful engine but of course i spent more. Shoot me a PM. I'll see if i can get you a price on motor for u if u want.
HaHa You Watching me? Keep Watching
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 25
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 25 |
30.9k miles on my '00 SVT and it's getting a new long block - under warranty thank goodness. I have a similar rattle that appears under light throttle (rpm and gear independent.)
Technicians removed the oil pan (to verify that I have been taking care of it since I didn't keep my oil purchases) and the valve covers. They could not find anything that would indicate this problem. So, the Service Manager decided to order a new motor.
I just put a DMD on it, as well; however, it was after the noise first occured. However, it was sporatic, mainly when good and hot.
After the DMD it was evident consistently.
I noticed the engine smooth out quite a bit with the DMD on it. I hope it's a '03 Duratec with the DMD and new oil pan, but I won't hold my breath.
Good luck.
Regards, David
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 237
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 237 |
I had this problem on a 98 Dodge Caravan. Thing would run rough and make a HORRIBLE noise. It did have 89k miles on, however. Turns out there was metal in the oil pan. Used a magnet and found it was Steel (Rod or Wrist Pin, Piston is Aluminum). Never tore the engine down (got rid of it with some Lucas and 60 Weight Oil...  ), but the estimate was a Wrist Pin. A trick you can try is to take a screwdriver, place it on the valve cover, then put your ear to it. Move it around and you should be able to isolate the Knocking. Good luck, I was in for a new engine as well.
'97 Mercury Mystique GS (Not mine anymore...)
Now running a Toyota Matrix XR
Red, 16" wheels, Sunroof, VVT-i
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