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#618115 04/29/03 01:42 PM
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Do they make sets for 95? I have 4 wheel discs as well.

Anyone have them, how do they feel??? I plan on keeping the car for awhile and think it'd be a nice way to ensure that the brakes will last as long.


"Fear is the little death." Muadib.
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I have the braided lines on all 4 and they feel great. I upgraded the rotors and pads myself and had a shop do the lines a few days later. In my opinion the lines made more of a difference than the slotted rotors and the KVR pads. I have a 98 SVT by the way, dont know if they make the lines for your car.


Ground Control Coilovers Koni Adjustable struts Sub-frame connectors Slotted rotors Carbon Fibre pads Stainless Steel Braided line KKM Intake Pro-Flow Mass-air Meter 22mm rear sway bar Polyurethane motor mount inserts
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How much was it to have them installed on all 4 wheels? Anybody know which lines are the best? There are a few different brands out now for our cars...Aeroquip, Goodrige...


1998 black Contour SVT E0 -KKM Intake -B&M Short Shifter -SPARCO front strut tower bar -24mm Aussie rear sway bar
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Only difference is that one is DOT approved the other isn't. No difference just price. Easy as hell to install, but you have to protect them from rubbing on metal. I wrapped mine in rubber hose and zip tied it on so it wouldn't move. It also makes the car look like it has stock lines


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I've heard they give a greater feel as well. I also like the looks of them as well.


"Fear is the little death." Muadib.
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All they do is give a better feel, they do not affect braking performance at all other than your ability to modulate the brakes better. And the non-DOT ones can be and usually are better than the DOT ones becuase they use a better connection between line and banjo, but the connection simply isn't DOT approved.

And yes, be very careful with their routing and/or put some protection on them because they can be rubbed through by tire, wheel, or strut with catastrophic results.


Pacific Green '96 Contour LX V6 â??98 GTP, light mods, 14.66/94 Calypso Green '92 Mustang LX coupe, 13.56/101 Crown Autocross Club 1999 Street Tire Champion, 2000/2001/2002 Street Modified Champion KCR SCCA 2002 Solo II Street Modified Champion
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Originally posted by MFE:
All they do is give a better feel, they do not affect braking performance at all other than your ability to modulate the brakes better. And the non-DOT ones can be and usually are better than the DOT ones becuase they use a better connection between line and banjo, but the connection simply isn't DOT approved.

And yes, be very careful with their routing and/or put some protection on them because they can be rubbed through by tire, wheel, or strut with catastrophic results.




For most folks here, I would recommend getting DOT approved lines. If you are asking here, you won't know enough to honestly discern the difference between a really good non-DOT line and a really bad non-DOT line.

And what MFE said about routing, be very careful, not only because somehting can rub through the line, but also, the line can rub through other stuff. The stainless wrap on the outside can act like a little file on anything near it. tire, strut, etc. and it is more than capable of going through even a strut body over time.


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Good point on the file issue. My brake lines are okay for now. I suppose that they'll last for quite awhile. When (mileage?) would be a good time to replace with new DOT approved??


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Originally posted by Rara:
Originally posted by MFE:
All they do is give a better feel, they do not affect braking performance at all other than your ability to modulate the brakes better. And the non-DOT ones can be and usually are better than the DOT ones becuase they use a better connection between line and banjo, but the connection simply isn't DOT approved.

And yes, be very careful with their routing and/or put some protection on them because they can be rubbed through by tire, wheel, or strut with catastrophic results.




For most folks here, I would recommend getting DOT approved lines. If you are asking here, you won't know enough to honestly discern the difference between a really good non-DOT line and a really bad non-DOT line.

And what MFE said about routing, be very careful, not only because somehting can rub through the line, but also, the line can rub through other stuff. The stainless wrap on the outside can act like a little file on anything near it. tire, strut, etc. and it is more than capable of going through even a strut body over time.




thanks for the tip rara.
i had my shop install them, but I will double check them to be double sure.

Thanks!


Hugo ------ 98 SVT - 53k mi - SOLD 04 Mazda3 S 5-Dr
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FYI, the main difference in DOT and non are in the fittings. DOT requires the line not have any junctions in it and be crimped rather than the more common race parts we assemble by hand. They must also pass a whip test and are not allowed to use 'adapters' of sorts.

Sorry, but mine are race bred. You get an adapter for the caliper and one for the hard line. Connect the two and you have a hose. Works for my races cars and I think it will for you too.


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