Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting wiring diagram?

now the question is how do i cut the connection between pin nine and r12? i suppose i will have to dismantle the entire fuse box? oh boy, fun for me!!!

OK, the saga continues.
I replaced wiper relay about a year ago but I only have vague recollection of fuse panel, and at the moment it's raining so I can't refresh memory. I think it's a honeycomb affair that flips down and has fuses and relays on one side and a bunch of connectors on the other side. The manual is no help (again!) but I presume there are some jumpers pre-installed on the panel before the fuses, relays and connectors are mounted. If you can check this out and report it would be helpful. It would appear logical that connectors line up with their plug-in device wherever possible, so how many connectors line up with timer? r12?
It maybe easier to cut wires going to connectors and run them to your own little mod box. In this regard it appears the ultimate connection to ground via r12 maybe easily severed and could then serve as your point to inhibit lights. Unfortunately that connection is also the timer's ground (pin 16 on diagram,pin 15 on pin-out) so you would have to remove onboard jumper and run a separate ground for timer.

ok i'll take a look at it but it may not be for a couple of days. i think that even if it is preassembled jumpers it shouldn't be too hard to dismantle at least enough to break the connection. we have the tools to do it at my work. i would rather do that than create a seperate relay box. of course if the r12 is a positive trigger relay, then it's going to be easier to do it the way you said. tomorrow i will check the r12 fuse and find out if it is positive or negative trigger. thanks.

check ya later

Your last post read, will await your next.

In the meantime, since spring finally seems to be arriving up here in the Great White North I'm going to rake lawn, clean golf clubs and see when my golf buddies want to start our weekly game. Might even tackle the wife's never-ending hubby-to-do list.

lol, well one of the guys at work was sick today, so i didn't have time to check the relay, but i will do it tomorrow. i'm so hoping that it is a negative trigger relay. i don't see that many positive trigger relays in fords, but it wouldn't suprise me if the one i want to be negative is positive. anyways, will check out tomorrow and post results afterwards.

So why don't you just turn the delay off at the switch???

DemonSVT:
Unfortunately there is no "no delay position", which would permit dome light to go out immediately upon door closure.

Choices are:
1 delay (off with key insertion, or 12 secs. after door closes)
2 off (always, never comes on even with door open)
3 on (always, never goes off even with door closed)

Ford should have provided a variable delay or at least a zero delay option.

Caraudiofreak21:
Just to be sure I am following your nomenclature:

B+ > load > contact > ground - Negative trigger
B+ > contact > load > ground - Positive trigger

Under this convention r12's contact is negative trigger.

Edit @ 10:30 p.m.
We know one side of r12's coil goes to ground so the timer module provides the positive.
It would be wrong to assume this is +12 volts since the timer may provide a lesser positive voltage.

It was dry and sunny here today so I had a quick look at fuse panel. Its not like I recalled (I must have been thinking of my ...should I say it....Buick). Timer is first thing you see and its not a visible honeycomb, also connectors attach to both sides. It appears that after flip-down that you may be able to extract it from its pivot points, which would provide more access. Otherwise you have to be a tiny contorionist, I'm neither. FYI.

read last post, about the timer, on mine there aren't connectors on both ends, but clips, i have to use a pick or screwdriver to release the clips and the timer module pulls out from the bottom of the fuse box. it has a 20 pin connector on the backside of it which plugs into the fuse box when the timer is snapped in place.

about the r12 relay, what i was hoping was that one side of the coil is always connected to +12 and that the timer provides the ground. if this is the case, i should be able to rewire easily.

if one side is constantly connected to ground and the timer provides +12, then i will have to use relays to make the door triggers provide +12 volts to the relay instead of ground. if i were to bypass the timer like we talked about.

I didn't have a chance to check the relay yet, been pretty busy at work, i will check tomorrow.

I am thinking this, if the r12 relay is constantly connected to +12 and the timer provides ground, then i should be able to break the circuit in the timer leading to pin 9 (using a hobby knife to cut the embedded circuit), and run jumper wires from pins 1 and 2. I will have to diode isolate pin 2 so that the key in and/or headlight on dinger will not sound without the drivers door being open, but that's not difficult. this way, i will be able to do all of this without having to climb under my dash, except to remove & replace the timer. but with my luck, pin nine will be a positive output.

anyways, i'll check that tomorrow.

1 Sorry my wording unclear, I meant connectors on both sides of fusepanel. My timer is as you described.

2 You lose re-read my post

3 it is

4 you said it not me. :}

Roger and out for to-night.

i just had another thought, since the timer provides +12 to the r12 relay, what if i merely broke the ground on the other side of the coil and had the door triggers provide the ground? wouldn't that have the same effect since the ground would only be present when the doors were open, and the timer would provide +12?