Finally warmed up a bit - decided to do the water pump.
SVT E0 at 45K. No problem yet, but better safe than sorry.

Got the metal impeller pump from Autozone, a thermostat and O-ring from Ford.

Took it apart with no problem - split the housing by placing a short screwdriver behind the lug at the 7 O'clock position and giving a twist (thanks for that tip).

The inner metal ring was intact and secure. The impeller exhibited some chipping at the tips of the vanes.

Cleaned the old gasket material from the housing, soaked the new gasket in water, put it all back together with the new thermostat and O-ring (thermostat first, then O-ring).

Put it all back together with a new Optima Orange Top. The terminals are higher than the stock battery but it fits fine. I sprayed the terminals with some red anti-corrosion stuff, and I see just a trace of it on the hood insulation pad. There's minor contact with the pad when the hood is closed, but no big deal.

Topped off the overflow tank, installed the cap, turned the heat to high and started it up. Observed no heat at all (someone else was complaining of this) until the thermostat opened, then heat was normal.

Shut it down, let it cool. Overflow tank was almost dry. Refilled, ran it up to temp again. Everything normal with the Temp gauge running around the 'O'.

Let it cool again, filled to just above MAX line, and it seems to be happy.

While I was in there, I pulled the +4s and replaced them with Autolite double plats. The +4's were in for about 25K and didn't look too bad, but the idle is smoother with the new plugs.

Next up - DMD.

AL


Red '98 SVT E0 3098/6535
KKM, Elizabethan EGR Plate, TH fix
OMP front brace
Hightower rear brace
DMD
B&M with reverse lockout disabled and centering spring removed
Mobil 1 oil and trans fluid
A6 Side Markers, Optima orange, Horn recontent
Painted Sail Panels
VooDoo Knob and pedals, RogerR deadpedal
Blau Houston & CD changer
Cup holders that work
Donnelly mirror
BAT Sill Plates
and a Bullitt fuel door