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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
IMO it would be stoopid to run a direct port dry kit, plus I would think you would piece it together
So then IYO a returnless car will never be able to run a direct port setup then.
I may hold you to that you know. 
BTW - why is a single entry dry kit fine & dandy but when it evenly distributes the nitrous to each port it's stoopid???
Perhaps I can shed some light on this subject. It is possible to have a direct port dry system in a returnless fuel car if you can monitor proper nitrous pressure going into each cylinder so the EEC could increase the fuel pressure accordingly. Of course, nitrous pressure is not constant while you are spraying(dropping while the nitrous oxide content getting lower also). Which means you will need extensive tuning to prevent you from going lean.
To my knowledge, the single entry dry kit for 99+ returnless fuel mustangs solves that problem by spraying in front of the MAF and tricks the EEC to spikes the fuel pressure. I am sure the same thing could be done in the CSVT.
Now here is my question, why would you want to run the dry system? A wet system is much safer since you are not depending on the EEC to deliver the fuel for you. Plus, NOS already makes the components for the returnless fuel system. Nitrous will spray right next to the fuel injectors(a special fitting goes in after the fuel rail) so you don't have to worry about puddling. Wouldn't that be easier??
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Greg, on the 'extra' fuel system, maybe my thinking is misconstrewed, but I would think (Never claimed to be an expert) that it would be 'easier'/safe to have the addtional fuel system, due to tuning. What are the chances that it could go lean on the very first run and go kaboom? I'd much rather be super rich with the addtional fuel system, etc etc. BTW, I'm not expert on the returnless cars, as I could care less right now since I don't have one....I'll go back to my return car :-P BTW, I'd like to see your setup, since you've always said that you don't like the giggle gas 
Ryan
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Where can I find a direct port dry kit? I'm interested in running up to 125 shot direct port, and tune the fuel solely via PCM programming.
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Originally posted by AirKnight:
Where can I find a direct port dry kit?
You can't. It would have to be something you made yourself.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Originally posted by tcobra98:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
IMO it would be stoopid to run a direct port dry kit, plus I would think you would piece it together
So then IYO a returnless car will never be able to run a direct port setup then.
1. It is possible to have a direct port dry system in a returnless fuel car if you can monitor proper nitrous pressure going into each cylinder so the EEC could increase the fuel pressure accordingly.
2. Of course, nitrous pressure is not constant while you are spraying(dropping while the nitrous oxide content getting lower also). Which means you will need extensive tuning to prevent you from going lean.
3. Now here is my question, why would you want to run the dry system? A wet system is much safer since you are not depending on the EEC to deliver the fuel for you.
4.Plus, NOS already makes the components for the returnless fuel system. Nitrous will spray right next to the fuel injectors(a special fitting goes in after the fuel rail) so you don't have to worry about puddling. Wouldn't that be easier??
No offense, but "quoted from someone who doesn't appear to know about this setup!"
1. Read up on the VCN-2000 kit! Then get back to me on all that. BTW - we're talking about RETURNLESS.
No FPR to use to raise fuel pressure. Increasing fuel output can only be controlled by programming the PCM or changing injector pulse width.
Also you don't need to control or "know" the amount going to each cylinder. Just the amount going through the solenoid valve - which is computer controlled and metered in this case! (one of "those" much superior part aspects!) The pressure will equalize in each individual port line.
Spraying in front of the MAF is a very piss poor way to try to accomplish this! Not only does it give erratic MAF readings which in themselves could destroy the engine (random lean spots), but it most likely will also put the readings well beyond normal limits. The PCM has a limited range of operations for the MAF to function in. (MAF transfer function) If it goes out of that range it will throw a CEL. Also it won't be able to command any more fuel for the extra airflow!
Also the ultra COLD nitrous charge will make matter much worse and make the readings even more erratic.
2. If the nitrous pressure dropped then it would run rich, not lean. If it "some how" raised the VCN kit would compensate automatically (like I said read up on it)
ANY Nitrous setup should be dyno tuned. Only a fool wouldn't IMO!
3. For all the reasons I just posted! Please re-read my last post on the numerous benefits plus not having to install an entire fuel system just to make a wet kit on a returnless car.
Much safer, using the PCM is "un-safe"??? Why is the PCM unreliable and not capable of controlling fuel? Better tell Ford their EEC-V setup is suspect. (drip, drip) Wonder if all of Ford vehicles have to switch to a stand alone fuel management setup for mod changes. 
4. DOES NOT FIT. Plus it's not for returnless cars. (unless they released something in the last few days that's computer controlled) Also the NOSzle setup is a wet system not dry.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by AirKnight:
Where can I find a direct port dry kit?
You can't. It would have to be something you made yourself.
So, I can probably just get a wet kit, and split it into 6 and tap into where the UIM meets the LIM. Something like that would work?
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In the above post, I meant to say a dry kit and split it into 6.
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Again, why go thru all that work for a dry kit?
Ryan
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Just to follow up, on what Greg says, all of the Venom Kits are Dry kits that are computer controlled Just that the VCN-2000 you have so much more control of when you nitrous activates. I am a direct distributer of these product and deal with them evey day, though i do not know much about other nitrous kits and the proper way of install, i can tell you that from all of my customers that i ahve sold these kits too, they have had no problems with damageing there engines.
As greg has stated many times before, the computer control moduel does everything a reprogramed ECU would do...Now i am not saying tunning is not nessacary, because it is still very nessicay to get the most performance, but with the VCN kits they come ready out of the box to use safely. In my opinion there are expensive, but great beginner systems for thoes who don;t know much, or have the money to tune there cars properly.
The VCN's are designed to shut off nitrous flow if the car begins to run lean. ANd you have a digital display to show all of the nned information.
But back on topic, personaly, modifying any nitrous system (IE: turning a wet kit to direct port dry kit) is dangerous and should only be left to perfesional tuners and manufatures in my opinion. As to why I will get that information form my Venom rep and post again.
Roz
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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Originally posted by AirKnight:
So, I can probably just get a wet kit, and split it into 6 and tap into where the UIM meets the LIM. Something like that would work?
Yes that's "bascially" what you would do.
Designing/fabricating a proper metering block to split the lines would be the hardest part. You may be able to get one pre-fabbed from a company that sold direct port kits?
I have a couple friends with direct port wet kits so I've seen how everything is tied together. Buying the fittings and lines is simple. The part that may take some doing is getting 5 more ends from Venom. The VCN-2000 kit has a special nozzle since their unique solenoid valve does all the metering.
Being you are return style you really should look into a wet kit. You can get those in pre-fabbed kits. Much easier than designing a dry kit yourself.
Besides unless you are planning on using the expensive VCN-2000 kit as your base you won't get any of the other benefits I mentioned. IMO it's well worth the extra initial cash outlay for them though!
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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