Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec Another dead 3L

Ok after 4500 almost trouble free miles its making a bad ticking noise. The oil level was fine when the noise started and it had been changed about 1500 miles before the problem. I run an extra quart in there because of the lack of the oil pan mod. Its not like the spun bearing that killed the original motor. This noise is at the top and sounds alot different. Two people have looked at it and both say it sounds like a lifter/follower tapping. I used a brand new 3L, had the heads reconditioned using the old, but cleaned 2.5 valves. The rest of the parts in the heads were replaced with new stuff. The timing chain and cams were also reused. The tech thinks I may have floated a valve or crushed a lifter(?) I have yet to do a compression test but the car runs fine. No loss of power at all unless I get on it hard above 4500RPM. I just hope I didn't destroy the bottom end. I have larger injectors and 3L valves to put in and I'm going to port the heads better this time. My questions are:
1) Is there anything I might want to replace while I'm at it?
2) What else do I need, other than the vlaves, to replace the 2.5 valves with the 3L ones. New locks, seals, etc.?

I know about the seats already.I have a second car now so I can take my time with the Tour and do it right this time.

With my drop set for this weekend, all you guys are scaring me...stop it.. Man I hope its not in the bottem end. Goodluck

You will need new press in valve seals to put in the 3L valves as the seat cutting machine guide will pretty much ruin the stock seals in the cutting process. IIRC, around 40 bucks from Bill Jenkins. I've reused the locks before, but would replace yours since the noise seems to be coming from the upper end.

New upper end gasket set too. Could probably reuse the intake gasket if they were only replaced 4,500 miles ago, but they're cheap, so I wouldn't chance a vacuum leak.

Get new lash adjusters and finger followers obviously. If you guys reuse your old ones, you HAVE to know which lobe each lash adjuster came off of because they wear as a set. If one gets out of place, you can have clatter, increased wear, or even immediate bind/failure.

I don't know if I want my 3L any more with all these problems going on... I'm getting nervous

What would cause this?

yeah man, first airknight, now this. . .it's like reliving the spun bearing pre-DMD phase here. . .

7000 rpm too long too many times according to Ford. I only hit the rev limiter acouple times due to missed shifts. I never held it there. Even though I don't plan to run my car to 8000+ RPM's are there any aftermarket valve train componets for racing. I want the peace of mind of knowing I can rev the engine to 6750 RPM's and still have alot more RPM's left. The stock stuff is supposed to be good yet I just detroyed the new parts in the upper end after 4500 miles. I think it was due to poor work with the head shop or improper assembly at the dealership. I'm doing the compression test this weekend and then pull the heads. I'm a single dad so time is harder to come by than money at this point. I want to make sure I do it right this time.

No warranty. That was the only way they would do the motor. The head work that was done is covered under warranty IF the head work is the cause of the problem. I was reading AirKnights post about how his is running and mine still runs fine starts right up. Is this a good sign for me?