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I have managed to break two of the tabs on the passenger side sill. Is there a trick to getting those thing out? Especially the ones right next to the seat (dumb ford!!)? I am trying to run my RCA's to the trunk...when I get to the backseat, what do I do? Can I do better than just shoving it under the very edge? Since nobody answered my other post, I'll ask that question again!
Where is the best place for the fuse and wiring in the engine bay?
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There can be some MEAN people here at times man "Motorcity" so if nobody reply's just hang in there.
I took my back seat out and ran my power to the truck and rca's. Once you get the back seat out youâ??ll see what i mean, there's a lot of room, As far as the door, well i donâ??t think there is a trick , just try to be careful
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Addicted CEG\'er
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The bottom of the back seat pulls right up, then you'll see two tors head bolts, actually you only need to remove the two outter ones, the middle one is a kind of support bracket for the back seat. If i recall correctly the torx bolt size was T-50.
As for the sill plates did you take out the little plastic screws before you started pulling them up?
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Joined: Mar 2002
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Originally posted by SaV-iT:
Where is the best place for the fuse and wiring in the engine bay?
how do you mean? i have mine from the battery into the car along the inside of the fender. do you mean where to go through the firewall? that's kinda tricky.
"What did you think about that Dorothy girl?"
"The whole Judy Garland thing kinda turned me on. That doesn't make me some sort of fag does it?
"Nah baby, your money."
98 Black SVT #3560 of 6535
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The sills, I got the screws I could out...the others weren't quite so co-operative  ...how are you supposed to get them out when there is like an inch between them and the seat, and the screw is recessed to far for a right-angle driver? So if all I want to do is run the wires, I should be able to pull the back seat up, without unfastening anything? As for the battery wiring, I have it through the firewall, I was mainly interested in where you mounted the fuse...or if you left it flapping  .
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Joined: Jan 2003
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CEG\'er
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I broke ny door sills to. then i figured out how to get them off. Loosen all the screws, pry them out with a very small flat head till they are out of the recess's. The lift the outside edge of the panel(side facing outside) and you will see all the plastic wedge poppers. take a lonf flat head driver and pry on those flat points. you will see everything im talking about when you lift up.
As far as my fuse i have it in the engine on the front side of the battery with a zip tie i think. Hope this all helps. its all worth it when you hear your system for the first time:)
1998 Contour V6 se ATX Black
Bassanni w/o resinators, modified intake box, DMD
New headlights w/ silverstar 9005's, blue neons inside, metal waterpump, pioneer head, pioneer 5x7
3 ways,2 10" subs, 800w amp, 17x7.5 motegi mr12 p215/45/17
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Originally posted by SaV-iT:
I was mainly interested in where you mounted the fuse...or if you left it flapping .
zip tie 
"What did you think about that Dorothy girl?"
"The whole Judy Garland thing kinda turned me on. That doesn't make me some sort of fag does it?
"Nah baby, your money."
98 Black SVT #3560 of 6535
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 50
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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Originally posted by SaV-iT:
The sills, I got the screws I could out...the others weren't quite so co-operative ...how are you supposed to get them out when there is like an inch between them and the seat, and the screw is recessed to far for a right-angle driver?
This is an excellent opportunity to make your own tools. Cheap screwdriver + vise = custom length right-angle screwdriver.
'98 SVT
KKM / TH fix / Mobil 1 / Synth tranny cocktail / JVC LX-30 HU / 10 JL sub / Alpine V12 amp / Panther 199 wheels / Kuhmo Ecsta 215/45/17 / Bosch +4 / Ford Motorsport wires
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,825
Cool Toe Chris
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Cool Toe Chris
Joined: May 2000
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Originally posted by Patrick:
Originally posted by SaV-iT:
The sills, I got the screws I could out...the others weren't quite so co-operative ...how are you supposed to get them out when there is like an inch between them and the seat, and the screw is recessed to far for a right-angle driver?
This is an excellent opportunity to make your own tools. Cheap screwdriver + vise = custom length right-angle screwdriver.
Or do what I did. I pulled the front seat out of the car, only 10 bolts to the floor, not including the cosmetic seat track covers and the seat belt bolt. Then, you can get at all of the screws on the door sill trim with ease. Also, the carpet comes up and guess where I ran my power wire.  Actually, that was my first iteration, when I redid everything, I ran it under the door sills, fed the wire (0 gauge) through the exisiting holes under the actual sill. Pretty slick, I think as it is protected from pretty much everything. I also sprayed some expanding foam to keep it in place. When the wire came out to the back, I removed the rear bench and ran it up and under the ledge. You'll see the ledge when you remove the rear bench. I have pix somewhere if anyone is interested.
Chris
NJ
98.5 SVT Silver Frost
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i ran a 4 gauge wire through the fire wall but i had to drill. i didnt remove and panels or the rear seat i just shoved it in real good. all the rca jacks and wires are hidden and cant even be seen even in the trunk you cant see any wires anywhere in my car. not even in the trunk. you shouldnt have to remove any panels to put rca jacks and remote wire. my power wire probally isnt in the best recomended spot but hey it works real good.
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