Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
#544849 02/11/03 04:45 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
F
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
F
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
I have a 95 C-Tour, w/ about 100,000 miles, its a 2.0 Ztec with a manual trans. I had a tune up done, and had fuel filter changed.

Problem:
If i shift all the way down to first when coming to a stop, you dont feel the stumbling, but when the engine gets up to operating temp or higher, and i leave it in neutral and use the brake only to stop, the car feels like its going to stall out.

i dont have a tachometer, so i cant see the rpms, but i can tell through the wheel that the engine dips way low, briefly, then comes back up. Sunday i had the injectors flushed and the oil changed, and that seemed to help the performance a bit, but i still have the symptom, though a little less severe. Any fixes? Suggestions?

I think i saw something similar in another thread, but i dont really know if its my problem.. Will a throttle body cleaning help? IAC? PCV?. I dont think its the PCV because I had the Jiffy Lube Guy check it and he said it was ok.

#544850 02/11/03 05:45 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,166
Z
Hard-core CEG\'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG\'er
Z
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,166
Did you have this problem before the Tune-Up?

What exactly was done with the tune-up? Were your spark plugs and wires replaced?

Air Filter replaced?


- Zack WANTED: T-Red HEATED Side Mirrors FOR SALE: 4 14" Alum Alloys and Nearly New Avid H4s Tires w/ Center Caps 2000 T-Red SVT 1995 LX V6 MTX (RIP)
#544851 02/11/03 05:58 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
F
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
F
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
i replaced my plugs and wires about 2 mths ago, and the air filter as well

#544852 02/11/03 10:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
F
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
F
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
up

#544853 02/11/03 11:07 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 667
G
Veteran CEG\'er
Offline
Veteran CEG\'er
G
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 667
Originally posted by I-BCruzn:
...but when the engine gets up to operating temp or higher, and i leave it in neutral and use the brake only to stop, the car feels like its going to stall out...





If using the brakes causes the engine to stumble, then it sounds like it might be a vacuum leak. Check all hoses for breaks/tears, and hoses that are not connected properly. Spray carb cleaner on all engine seals and hose connections while the engine is running. If the engine stumbles, then there is probably a leak.


96 Contour SE Duratec V6 24-valve 2.5L ATX 108,000 mi. Replaced: crankshaft w/ DMD, EGR valve (clogged), EVR, DPFE, PCV valve, evap emissions hose & tube (cracked), window regulator (broken), LH & RH PCV tubes, UIM gasket (leak), ignition coil
#544854 02/12/03 04:06 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11
S
New CEG\'er
Offline
New CEG\'er
S
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11
If it happened right after changing the plugs, might want to make sure you have the right temperature plugs, or that they aren't faulty somehow. Or the wires. Or a distance sensor that maybe got unplugged. Or an idle air valve that broke or got unplugged. Did you disconnect the battery? Maybe it's just relearning its idle.


'99 Contour SE Sport V6, 5spd, Dark Blue / Blue
#544855 02/13/03 01:32 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
F
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
F
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
im back. i took your advice and sprayed carb cleaner around the throttle area, and on and around the hoses and seals. I'll admit, the engine did stumble just a bit, but my neighbor came over and told me to spray the cleaner directly onto the throttle plate, to clean any gook that may have settled there. I did, and the car improved 85% ! I still feel an ever so slight shaking after i downshift and come to a stop, even with the clutch in. This simptom is very very mild now, that the throttle plate may have become stuck, but is now clean.

On the same note, i checked the hoses and not one of them appeared damaged/broken/not connected properly. how do i know which one needs replacing? If they do ?

#544856 02/13/03 01:38 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
F
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
F
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
The plugs that i bought were from Advanced auto Parts, and i asked the guy to make sure they were the right plugs and wires for the Tour. He assured me that they were. They fit perfectly and did not seem faulty when i inspected them. I didnt have the problem immediatley following the tune up. This symptom appeared about 2 1/2 months later.

Where is my idle air valve?

I didnt see any hoses or seals that looked bad/disconnected when i pulled the air cleaner off to spray the throttle.

The battery was not disconnected recently.

#544857 02/13/03 02:25 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 667
G
Veteran CEG\'er
Offline
Veteran CEG\'er
G
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 667
Originally posted by I-BCruzn:
i took your advice and sprayed carb cleaner around the throttle area, and on and around the hoses and seals. I'll admit, the engine did stumble just a bit...




Originally posted by I-BCruzn:
On the same note, i checked the hoses and not one of them appeared damaged/broken/not connected properly. how do i know which one needs replacing?




Where did you spray when the engine stumbled? If you can reproduce this consistently, then that is the area that has the vacuum leak.

Originally posted by I-BCruzn:
...my neighbor came over and told me to spray the cleaner directly onto the throttle plate, to clean any gook that may have settled there. I did, and the car improved 85%!




I'm not too familiar with the 2.0-liter engine, but the 2.5-liter engine is notorious for getting clogged behind the throttle body gasket (there are three small (~1/4")EGR passages that get clogged up w/ gunk). If spraying into the throttle body seemed to help, then I would remove it, clean it thoroughly, clean behind the gasket, replace the gasket, and put it all back together.


96 Contour SE Duratec V6 24-valve 2.5L ATX 108,000 mi. Replaced: crankshaft w/ DMD, EGR valve (clogged), EVR, DPFE, PCV valve, evap emissions hose & tube (cracked), window regulator (broken), LH & RH PCV tubes, UIM gasket (leak), ignition coil
#544858 02/13/03 03:18 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
F
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
F
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 393
Originally posted by GeoPappas:

I'm not too familiar with the 2.0-liter engine, but the 2.5-liter engine is notorious for getting clogged behind the throttle body gasket (there are three small (~1/4")EGR passages that get clogged up w/ gunk). If spraying into the throttle body seemed to help, then I would remove it, clean it thoroughly, clean behind the gasket, replace the gasket, and put it all back together.








spraying into the throttle body did help a whole lot. I think i have this problem almost cleared up, because i feel a marked improvement with the car now.

Originally posted by GeoPappas:

Where did you spray when the engine stumbled? If you can reproduce this consistently, then that is the area that has the vacuum leak.





Thats just the thing . i cant exactly determine where the leak is, if there is a leak, because i couldnt reproduce the same action, when i sprayed a specific area. the engine only burped a coupla times when i was cleaning anyway, so im gonna eliminate that possibility.

heres a pic of the throttle inlet, ( you cant see the plate because of the angle)



now does this piece need to be completely removed, to access the egr passages and to clean behind the gasket area? Explain.

and any idea how much the gasket would cost?

Last edited by I-BCruzn; 02/13/03 04:10 PM.
Page 1 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  horseydug_dup1, Ray_dup1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5