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Has anyone ever replaced their Intake Manifold Runner Control? I'm not sure exactly how it works, but I believe they open at higher RPM to allow addition fuel/air in to the engive on the 2.5 V6. Any thoughts? Difficulty?

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Why are you looking to replace it?


-06 GTO Torrid Red/M6 -98 LS with BPU -05 Honda Odyssey EX-L mv .zig ..\for\great\.justice
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The controls for that sit right on the front of the engine and when the engine reaches a certian RPM it opens, well mine stopped opening and I lost a lot of top end power, I use to have a powerband around 3500-4000 RPM. So what I did was Tie that lever open to see if that was my problem and now I have that top end power back, but the low end sucks now and it gets about 10 mpg.

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usually the butterfly valves in the intake get caked up with carbon and the imrc actuator cn't move them. brake cleaner will clean it up.

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The dealership replaced mine last week, but I was still under waranty. I don't know the cost of the unit, but I believe 96-2000 uses the same IMRC controller so here is a part number:

2s7z-9j559-aa

Mine would work for about the first 10 minutes while driving and then cutout until I restarted the car. I want to say the box which comes with a new cable is around $160.


2004 Focus PZEV 2.3L - KW sport suspension, SP camber plates, Eibach front swaybar, FS intake, FS Stealth exhaust, 3.82 Final, Torsen ATB, Prothane MM insert, E1 CSVT wheels 1/4 mile - 15.201@89.4mph
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Does anyone have pictures?

I am not too familiar with this. How do I visually check if everythings is working properly? I know you need to rev the engine up but I am not sure where to look.


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Originally posted by MotorCity:
Does anyone have pictures?

I am not too familiar with this. How do I visually check if everythings is working properly? I know you need to rev the engine up but I am not sure where to look.




I don't really have any pictures of this, but maybe I can explain where to look. First off, to make it easier you can take off the IMRC cover, this is the large plastic piece covering the valve cover that reads 2.5L Duratec. Under that you will find the IMRC control box. There will be a cable that comes out of it and goes under the throttle body. Find the end of that cable, it should connect to a mechanism similar to that on the throttle body. This is what opens the runners. You can view it from the front if you have the cover off (like I had you do) or from the driver side with the cover on. Now rev the car by hand past what you assume is 3500 and watch to see if the mechanism flips below the throttle body. It should flip towards the front of the car and then rotate back when below 3500.

Hope that helps.


2004 Focus PZEV 2.3L - KW sport suspension, SP camber plates, Eibach front swaybar, FS intake, FS Stealth exhaust, 3.82 Final, Torsen ATB, Prothane MM insert, E1 CSVT wheels 1/4 mile - 15.201@89.4mph
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I not sure, but I believe the car may have air flow, via driving for them to open, but since mine don't work I'm not sure? If you give me a week, I will take some pic's of mine when I am replacing it and I can email them to you.

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Cool. So is there any maintenance that can be done in there like cleaning (someone said brake cleaner) and lubing to make sure it all keeps working properly?


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It's probably just a fux0red cable like mine was. I rigged up a bicycle brake cable as a replacement, and it's worked perfectly ever since (1 month ago). No way in hell was I about to drop ~150 for a new box, when a cable only put me out $3.99.

In this picture, you can see the tip of the cable (it's a small silver tip shown next to the lower PCV feed hose) that I replaced with a bolt after feeding the new cable through, and using one of it's ends inside the box itself.

The way I made the end up was to drill a small hole in the head of a bolt, so that the other end came out right where the threads started. Then I pulled the cable through and used a washer+nut to crimp it tight.

Here is a shotty picture of said bolt. It took about 6 times before I had it crimped at the perfect length where it would open them fully, and allow the cable to return enough as to not trip the switch inside the box which tells if they are in an open or closed position.

The end I was speaking of which will be left on the new cable can be clearly seen in this picture on the right side. The cable frayed itself and then finally snapped about 3" past it's exit point from the IMRC box.

Words of caution do NOT remove the PCB from the IMRC box without the connector at the same time. These pieces are soldered together, and you'll seriously bollix it up if the pins snap on either. I scraped off as much adhesive as possible from the connector area and used some slip joint pliers to wiggle the connector out. Don't be afraid to mangle this connector a little bit, but not so much as that the wires will not fit back onto it.


-06 GTO Torrid Red/M6 -98 LS with BPU -05 Honda Odyssey EX-L mv .zig ..\for\great\.justice
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