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I got in my car this afternoon and could not get any heat, I then noticed that the temp. guage was pinned to the right. The car did not seem to be over heating(besides it's like 20 degrees outside). I check the Radiator fluid, a bit low, but not too bad. Any idea's on what's wrong?

Thanks!

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Common problem. Waterpump Ba bye. If you can change spark plugs on the Duratec than you can do the pump. Pretty easy. $70 for the one with the metal impellar and some coolant.

http://www.contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=probs&displayid=9


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Originally posted by 96SE:
I got in my car this afternoon and could not get any heat, I then noticed that the temp. guage was pinned to the right. The car did not seem to be over heating(besides it's like 20 degrees outside). I check the Radiator fluid, a bit low, but not too bad. Any idea's on what's wrong?

Thanks!




it's your temp sensor i had the same problem last winter it was -20 c start the car up and the temp was at the highest position. It's about 30.00$ (well here in canada)


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Originally posted by contour-mtl:
Originally posted by 96SE:
I got in my car this afternoon and could not get any heat, I then noticed that the temp. guage was pinned to the right. The car did not seem to be over heating(besides it's like 20 degrees outside). I check the Radiator fluid, a bit low, but not too bad. Any idea's on what's wrong?

Thanks!




it's your temp sensor i had the same problem last winter it was -20 c start the car up and the temp was at the highest position. It's about 30.00$ (well here in canada)




Bzzzzzzzzzzzt, wrong-o! The temp sensor going out will not make the heater fail to put out heat. It's the water pump that has failed.

96SE, what ever you do, DON'T DRIVE THE CAR ANY MORE! You'll warp the heads very easily if you do and cause thousands of dollars in damage in the process. Get the WP changed out and you'll be golden.


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Brad has got it right, the water pump is gone. I had the same problem this week on my 98 SE. Car will warmup like normal, but the needle on the Temp gauge just sails right on up to HOT. There is no hot air from the heater, which indicates no water circulation. Found the impeller had broken completely apart.

If you check the FAQ, you'll see that this (water pump impeller failure) is a typical problem at 50-60k miles. My Contour had 52300 miles on it.


Rick Steverson 98.5 Contour SE Sports Amazon Green Duratec ATX
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Had the same problems this week that you are having...don't waste your time on the temp sensor. That's only going to control the guage, not the heat in the car. Waters not circulating in there at all. When you pull that water pump off, you'll see the problem. It'll probably fall right out. Plastic impeller is gone in that little jewel. Don't drive the car until you get it fixed. A $70 WP will cost you big bucks if you fry that engine. Check NAPA or AutoZone. NAPA part # is Duropro 125-1910. Autozone is A125-1910. Pump has a metal impeller that you'll never have to worry about. Good luck.


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Just got home from a trip to Switerland and found my son (a new driver) had the car overheat on him. No heat, gauge pinned to the rightand coolant low. Gotta teach him to pay more attention to the gauges!!!
I'm replaceing the part now with a pump from NAPA ~$75. Question is what do I do about the gauge. Is the sensor fried?

Also noticed that the impeller is broken apart, and a piece (about 2/5 of the impeller) is missing. Is thst common? Or do I really start worrying that cooling flow will be restricted?

By the way, had the good fortune to rent a Mondeo (a wagon) while in Switzerland. Couldn't really play with it much, but still fun to compare. I'll post more later if anyone's interested.

Thanks


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Ric,

Yes.. The duratec 2.5 is plagued with a common overheating caused by waterpump impellar failure. The plastic impellar seems to disentegrate over time, finally severing completely off, causing no coolant flow. Upon removal of the WP, it is QUITE common, if not ALWAYS, to find an impellar either missing, in ash-size pieces, or in larger pieces (5th's)

Replacement of the pump is the smart move.. Look into heat related damage, depending on how long your son drove afterwards..



Ray..


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Originally posted by Ric:

Also noticed that the impeller is broken apart, and a piece (about 2/5 of the impeller) is missing. Is thst common? Or do I really start worrying that cooling flow will be restricted?






If you do not remove the pieces, the restriction can cause the new pumps seals to leak after a while. Temps may be higher than usual at idle. Back-flush the radiator and block until you find them.

And of course, change the oil right away.


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During wp replacements it's wise to check the stainless steel cone in the wp housing to ensure it's not loose. Cavity behind cone first place to look for missing impeller bits, and a fill/run engine/drain/fill/run engine/drain cycle on cooling system after new pump installed a good idea before anti-freeze is installed.

Both my pumps went last May and I recovered 90% of the shattered impellers and followed the foregoing with no detrimental after effects.
If less than 90% of impeller recovered then 'stat housing might be first place to look before segmenting the cooling system to perform proper back flush procedures.



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