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Originally posted by RodneyBur:
I bet you were cussing like a mo'fo. 700 mile from home. I would have been kicking the sh*t out of my car.



I'm sure that'd help. =]


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anyhow the timing system was assembled properly, i double checked yesterday with the builder after reading bnoon's post... the caps still have the punch marks on them that he made also....

one of 2 reasons is the cause... i got a fluke chain with a bad link, or the new design is weaker.... although i want to lean on the weaker design, i think the fluke link is my culprit... either case i'm still going with the older thicker chains just to be safe....

also i was not driving like a mofo when it popped... actually i only ran it hard once from stop and embarrased a 5.0 ... when it popped i was on my way to the NOPI Nationals in Atlanta.... 35 miles from atlanta, doing 70mph on the highway (just over 3K rpm)... the engine let go .... and if the timing chain was on crooked, it would of popped far earlier than the 1000+ miles i put on it....

either case i now have an engine in pieces that will be getting completely rebuilt from bottom up, hot tanked, new bearings, much hotter cams, oil cooler, and an HMS transmission.... i still need 24# injectors and a computer to manage it all, but in the end i expect to be not far under 300hp using no forced induction....


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Originally posted by PuckPuck:
but in the end i expect to be not far under 300hp using no forced induction....




Ahh good luck on that


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Originally posted by kinger:
Originally posted by PuckPuck:
but in the end i expect to be not far under 300hp using no forced induction....




Ahh good luck on that




well jjennings is not very far from that figure and i would be running a setup similar to his


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IIRC He's running 253 FWHP which is a long way's off 300 FWHP unless your talking crank HP, then he's close at 296.


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Originally posted by bnoon:
Now doesn't that just put a pit in your stomach?




Oh yes it did!

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Originally posted by kinger:
IIRC He's running 253 FWHP which is a long way's off 300 FWHP unless your talking crank HP, then he's close at 296.




Those are correct numbers with the mods as is. But with the new mods awaiting install, I am hoping for close to 300fwhp.

New mods include - SHM headers, Stand Alone Engine Managment system, a intake of some sort (still using stock intake) optimized TB 62mm and completely remove the secondaries (haven't decided on that yet.)

The last dyno, my peak numbers were right at the fuel cutoff, so we are hoping to get about 10 more hp just by raising the rev limiter, and hopefully 10hp from the headers and an optimized exhaust for the engine (currently running Borla single exhaust). With some good dyno tuning and a few other things, I am hoping for close to 300 at the wheels, but I will probably end up in the mid 280 range. Plus, I have to find out what the correction factors are for the higher elevation (it's not that high, but over 2000 feet) that might get me an extra .05 hp, but hey everything helps!!!


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PuckPuck, how did you install the damper on your engine and how did you torque it down?


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Originally posted by bnoon:
The valvetrain has very little resistance on it when assembled properly.




Brad, in reality the timing chain is a extremely stressed component in the engine. True, there isn't much resistance from actually turning the cams. However, I know you timed your engine and you must have felt the large amount of torque needed to open the valves by turning the crankshaft. (and no there isn't much compression resistance when you just turn the crank a few degrees to line up the chain)

In addition to the above, the chain is subject to large torque pulses as each cylinder fires and applies torque to the crankshaft. The damper and flywheel do provide some help but it's still not an easy life for the chains.

Still, I have not seen any issues *in my experience* with the Duratec timing chains (small or large size). I would have to guess that PuckPuck's failure was due to some other cause than an inherent design flaw with the smaller pitch chain.

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Originally posted by bnoon:
They aren't numbered as 1, 2, 3, 4, etc, but they do have measurements stamped on them IIRC.




They are all numbered. On a 2.5L the LH head cam caps will be numbered 1L, 2L, ...9L. The RH caps will be 1R, 2R,...8R. LH head has one extra cam cap on the intake cam for water pump drive.

There are no measurments stamped on the heads.

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