Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives

  I dunno why it didn't occur to me until now, a few weeks later, to ask about this in here.

  The last two oil changes on my Zetec, I did myself.  On the first of these occasions, I found it unreasonably difficult to get the oil plug out.  I figured that the idiot who last changed the oil must've put it in too tight.  I did get it out, change the oil, and put it back in, with a reasonable degree of tightness.

  On the occasion of the next oil change, I had an even more difficult time getting the plug out.  It was in much tighter than the last time.  As I was the one who had last put it in, I know I didn't put it in nearly that tight.  It was so tight, this time, that I was not able to get it out without chewing its head up pretty badly.  Next oil change, I'm going to have to get a new plug.

  So, WTF is going on here?  Any ideas?  How does a drain plug become so much tighter than when it was installed?  The thought occurred to me that perhaps this might have something to do with the fact that the Zetec has an aluminum pan, but my Tempo had an aluminum pan too, and I never had any problem like this with my Tempo.

  Should I be using some kind of anti-sieze compound on the oil drain plug?  Would it help to use such a compound?

Use Teflon tape.

Its always been really tight when I change it.. though now I got a Extension tool for the drainplug so it should come off alot easier...............CRAFTSMAN too

Fine threads plus extreme temp!

Easiest way to remove it with limited stress is to get your box end wrench out and with one hand hold it tight and use a rubber mallet or other similar tool and gently tap repeatedly on the wrench until the bolt breaks free. Remember to tap, do not wail on it!

I thought with my stock Y-Pipe out of the way it would get easier with a 3/8" socket. NOPE!

I have to do this everytime

It happened to me once...I had to go out and buy a vise grip after I chewed the head all to hell. Even with the vise grip I had to absolutely wail on it to get it off. Took me over an hour. I obviously had to replace the plug...which I put a little teflon on the threads before putting back on.

Get some single hex sockets and use the correct torque...15-21 Ft Lbs...it does have a seal...!

Any threaded item sometimes ends up with damaged threads. The damage may have been mechanical such as from over tightening or cross threading. The damage may also be chemical or metalerigical. Galling is the term. The two metal surfaces can actually weld themselves to each other. This is very common with titanium bolts into titanium items, and can happen with other metals as well, but it is much less common. You don't have to do anything wrong to end up being the victum.

Absolutely replace the plug next time you take it out. You should have the first time you found it so hard to remove. Be prepared to run a tap through the threads in the pan or even install new threads if the new plug is tight too. You must use the correct type of tap and you may need a machine shop to install a threaded insert of some type if it becomes necessary. Most of the time you just need a new plug, but be very careful.

Lifetime solution is to replace the plug with a Fumoto drain valve. I have these on all five of my cars. Spring loaded and you simply push and flip the lever and the oil drains. Fool proof. No more plugs, stripping, leqaking etc.

www.fumotovalve.com

$24.95 greatest thing since sliced bread!

i agree with terry. get a six point socket or closed end wrench. i use a closed ended 15mm wrench with a rubber mallet. also, i do my oil changes EVERY time now. i was at a jiffy lube with my dad a long time ago and while he was getting the oil changed in his work truck, one of the mechanics decided it was a good idea to use a impact gun to put the oil drain plug in. BAD IDEA!

yes, make sure its a 6 point and not 12 point. 12 will point will probably work but if its real tight you'll only strip out the head.