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#507378 12/26/02 09:30 PM
Joined: Jul 2002
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Oh, okay....makes sense...I didn't know the diagonals were connected..thanks.


95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn) 95 Mystique Zetec, MTX 2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec 1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8 1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
#507379 12/27/02 02:44 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
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Sorry guys this one doesn't add up.

There is no reason to bleed one caliper before the other beyond the fluid it shares its channel with cross contaminating the other.

The statement above doesn't make any sense. Suppose you are bleeding the RR, then go to the RF, where does this air come from that is now going to be in the RF? It isn't there. It didn't pull it in from the other line. Was the ohter line full of air? Sure hope not!

Years ago we used to do the caliper the furthest away first, and today that's still good thinking so you don't end up sucking any old FLUID into the shorter line when retracting the pedal.

On this diagonal system, uless you open the system to air via the master, allow air in to it, replace the ABS pump or open a valve in one of the lines between the mc and the caliper, the system doesn't know if you opened up a caliper or the pads are way worn! Fluid transfer is simply that; fluid transfer. If you don't allow air to become introduced into the system during the bleeding it doesn't matter which one is done first or last with regard to air- there isn't any.

Now, don't get me started on warpped rotors from over torqued lug nuts.....


Less Bling, more Zing Todd/TCE www.tceperformanceproducts.com
#507380 04/21/03 02:25 AM
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Todd - I hope you're right that it does not matter what order you bleed the brakes. My dad and I replaced the rotors and pads, installed speed bleeders and replaced the brake fluid today. Since it was Easter and we had someplace to go this afternoon, we just bled each wheel when we replaced the rotors and pads in order to save time. I really wasn't worried that there was any air in the system, I just wanted to replace the fluid. (My dad thinks that's a waste of time too but he was nice enough to help me out anyway.)

My question is this: with new pads and rotors, should I get a nice firm pedal right away or does it take time for the pads to bed-in? I drove around following the "bedding in" procedures that I have seen on this site and pedal feel is getting better but it's not as good as before I started.

Of course, I can always turn off the engine and without power assist, the pedal feels real hard.

Dave

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