Originally posted by ExDelayed:
Going off of what java was saying though. The engine needs to reach a certain temp before it goes out of open loop. If you are heating a couple of quarts of fluid this will happen much quicker. If you have to heat all 2+ gallons at the same time it will take awhile.
If I were to do anything, I would put in a colder thermostat, maybe a 180. I agree. The one in my SHO stuck open and the car never actually reached a proper operating temp. My mileage was poor, not that I really cared in that thing and power was a bit slugish. If the car keeps dumping more fuel than it really needs, there is a chance you may burn out your cats prematurely, because of the O2's running in open loop. That could be bad. Don't try to go too cold with a thermostat, you may still run into problems down the road. A real cold thermostat is primarily used for a engine with lots-o-mods and high output. You need to figure out what would fit your particular application the best.
Mark
00 svt tour- K/N filter, SHO SHOP Y pipe, 2 1/2" back to rear Y, improved tunes.
91 sho- Hi flow Y pipe, 2 1/2" exhaust, edlebrock rpm series 2 1/2" muffs, modified intake, K/N filter, modified manifold, 190 lph fuel pump, magnacor wires, ford double platinum plugs, underdrive pullies, custom LPM, 8 pound aluminum flywheel, hi revs race duel diaphragm kevlar clutch, solid torque limiters, poly bushings evrywhere, heavy duty subframe bushings, heavy duty engine and trans mounts, subframe connectors, front and rear strut tower braces, eibach springs, tokico struts, camber ajustment plates, light weight swaybar end links, cross drilled rotors, carbon fiber pads, 225/55/16 SP 5000's, redline water weter, redline trans fluid, mobil 1 synthetic oil, police grill and the need for speed!!!
It's a chronic disease.
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