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Subject says it all. The Rpm surge a lot when it idles, and even stalls out sometimes. I tried cleaning the MAF but it wasn't very dirty anyhow, and it didn't fix anything. I will just replace IAC if I have to, but it's expensive and if I can just clean it, that would be better. Thank you in advance for any info.
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When you cleaned your MAF sensor, did you actually REMOVE the electronic element from the MAF housing? I found that you need to make sure you remove that element, and spray it off with brake and parts cleaner. Even a tiny bit of soot on the heater or the sensor of it and it can cause problems. Mine had a dirty element, even though the rest of the MAF housing looked clean. I also encounter this problem on many Fords at work. You will need a special torx screwdriver to remove it though. And yes, you probably could try cleaning the IAC motor if it looks dirty and valve does not move freely. Just use brake and parts cleaner on that too. While your in that area, it may not be a bad idea to check and make sure your EGR valve and passages are clean. A sticking EGR valve can cause idle problems too, if not closing all the way. On many Fords, most of the time the computer will set a code if EGR system is partially open, but it does not always (on every car), if it is only open a tiny bit
'95 CONTOUR SE
-Enkei 16s
-SVT wannabe
-Dual escapes w/ 2 1/2" stainless tips
-True LED taillight conversion
- Audi Xenon Projector Retrofit
-Mp3 deck, dual 10s
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Joined: Aug 2002
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no I did not actually remove it, but I will. I have to get that hex bit from my father in law. But just to make sure, you loosen the 1 hex screw, and pull the whole thing off the top right? Also, how do you take the IAC off? I thought for sure as much as it's talked about on this site there would be a how-to, but there's not. Thank you again.
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when mine was sticking, I hit it with a snowbrush (only thing handy), and it's been working great for 3 weeks now. 
contours, deloreans & fiats, oh my!
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Joined: Aug 2002
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Ha!! that's funny. I think it really does only tend to stick when it's really cold out. Maybe I'll try a little tap next time lol.
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Originally posted by Brad10071977:
Subject says it all. The Rpm surge a lot when it idles, and even stalls out sometimes. I tried cleaning the MAF but it wasn't very dirty anyhow, and it didn't fix anything. I will just replace IAC if I have to, but it's expensive and if I can just clean it, that would be better. Thank you in advance for any info.
This can be caused very easily by unmetered air (i.e. there's a hole somewhere after the MAF) entering the intake. The effect gets stronger as the air temp gets colder. (the injected fuel amount is calculated by the MAF info and the mixture gets too lean, causing slight rpm drops occasionally on idle, and larger drops on very small engine load (even power steering, braking)). Of course sticking IAC is another possible reason. The Haynes manual reasons that although Ford recommends against it, you cannot hurt the IAC any more by cleaning if it is already sick. Tiv
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I second the intake leak/vacuum leak. The IAC controls the idle air but does not fluctuate (as in surgeing) by itself.
It can make other problems worse if it sticks or is slow to react.
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
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Originally posted by Brad10071977:
no I did not actually remove it, but I will. I have to get that hex bit from my father in law. But just to make sure, you loosen the 1 hex screw, and pull the whole thing off the top right? Also, how do you take the IAC off? I thought for sure as much as it's talked about on this site there would be a how-to, but there's not. Thank you again.
Removing the IAC valve isn't so easy. Hope you've got small hands. There are two bolts (10mm I believe, even though the link mentions 8mm). Word of advise - get the bottom bolt off first before taking off the top one. Personally, cleaning the IAC valve didn't help me - I think I need to do a thorough cleaning of the TB and MAF. Good luck.
Jim H
95 Midnight Blue SE (Sold)
98.5 Silver Frost E1 (Sold)
'04 G35 6MT Sedan (Sold)
'01 Aurora 4.0
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i replaced my IAC valve and it took me 2 hours! Mostly because I dropped my wrench and had to get it out from the top of my trans, but it is a PITA! Lots of counting to 10! Maybe 50! 
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You should clean the throttle body at the same time you clean the IAC. Sometimes a dirty throttle body by itself will cause the problems you are having. Cleaning the throttle body on the car often gets a little bit of cleaner into the throttle body as well and that is sometimes enough to make a difference.
Sometimes a sticking / binding IAC will not respond to cleaning and will need to be replaced.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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