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#487052 11/24/02 12:12 AM
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This is a followup to an earlier post for my 95 Contour LX V6 MTX with 70K miles.

After clutch repair, engine would crank, no start. Ford replaced the underhood wiring harnesses, alternator (seized), crank and cam sensors, computer, plugs and could not get the car to start before informing me that additional work would not be under warranty.

I have checked the codes and and all clear.
All the fuses are OK.
I get 30 psi at the fuel test valve (fuel pump can be heard).
I have spark at all cylinders.

The engine cranks, but won't start.

Suggestions on the next tests?

Tim.



#487053 11/24/02 12:33 AM
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Whew...if you have spark, fuel, and compression, in the right amounts, something should happen. Something I've done on lawn mowers and chain saws that wouldn't start is to pour a couple of spoonfuls of gasoline into the cylinder, put the plug back in, and then crank it. If it coughs and sputters a time or two, I knew the problem was in the fuel delivery. I know you said you had fuel pressure, but I wonder if it's actually getting into the cylinder. Just a thought, since I can't come up with anything else.


95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn) 95 Mystique Zetec, MTX 2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec 1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8 1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
#487054 11/24/02 12:39 AM
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As we all know, all an engine in good mechanical shape needs to run is : fuel, air, and spark.

To get air, the IAC must be opening.

You have fuel pressure, but are the injectors firing?

You have spark, is the firing order and timing correct?

The Dealer should have checked these things. Do you have a timing light to check the timing? Just as a preliminary test, check the fuel pressure while cranking and then leave the key on and pull the fuel pump fuse and crank again. With the fuse pulled the pressure should fall as you crank. If it does'nt then the injectors are not firing.


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#487055 11/24/02 07:32 PM
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OK - with your help, we WILL get this car started.

Tests this morning:

Fuel pressure - With pressure gauge connected, switched key on to get pressure, pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked engine, fuel pressure drops as engine cranks. This should indicate injectors firing.

Timing - Marked crank pulley notch and timing cover marks with paint, hook up timing light, cranked engine, pulley and timing cover marks were aligned at flash. This should indicate plugs firing at proper time.

That's fuel and spark, for air, remind me what the "IAC" is and how to test.

Thanks.

#487056 11/24/02 07:45 PM
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I know "I"diot "A"djusting "C"ontour!!!

I'm going the search the forum for Idle Air Control to see what I can find.

#487057 11/24/02 09:30 PM
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I don't remember exactly off hand but i think the fuel pressure is suppose to be 40 psi when the ignition is turned on. It is the same for either engine, the Ford service manual had a missprint. When the engine is cranked it is suppose to drop to 32 psi IIRC


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#487058 11/25/02 05:10 AM
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Fuel, ignition, and Compression at the right time. All they did was change out the clutch? It ran up until then? Now they want to throw it in your lap and say take off... They need to find someone smart enough to fix it. Someone smarter than the engine. I'm finding this hard to do at my local dealers.
Throwing a little gas in the intake is a trick I do sometimes to prime the engine. It will also tell you you have a fuel system problem when the engine fires for a few seconds. Just be real careful with the gas. Don't leave the gas can near the car because it may back pop and set it on fire. Close up the intake because the air filter will stop the flame if it back pops.

#487059 11/25/02 06:33 PM
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Don,

Actually I replaced the clutch since it was not covered by warranty. The local Ford dealer, in attempts to fix the problem, replaced the underhood wiring and computer under warranty before telling me "they had no idea..." I couldn't see spending the $70/hour to continue troubleshooting.

Results of today's test:

IAC clicks on and off when 12-volts applied, but there is no resistance when tested with the ohm-meter. Haynes manual says the resistance should be 6 to 14 ohms.

Fuel sprayed into the intake opening does not result in a brief start, it did backfire every couple of rotations with the throttle to the floor.




#487060 11/28/02 12:37 PM
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I ordered the replacement IAC valve from NAPAOnline yesterday. I will let everyone know if it gets the car to start. Thanks for all your help.

Tim.


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