Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting changing plugs on the 2.5 duratech

Yea, I just used a deep well socket, extension and rachet. It is a close fit but you can still do it with these basic tools!

I did mine at 50K. Took about 2 hours with ordinary extensions and a ratchet.
The original plugs looked OK except for the front ones from each bank, which were severely eroded.
Recommendations:
- cold engine
- blow out spark plug head hole with air before taking out old plugs
- use a locking extension with a socket with the rubber inside
- think twice about using anti-seize compound on threads
- use small amount of silicone grease inside plug boots

No offense, but if it is taking you guys upwards of 2 hours to do this, you are trying way too hard. I change my plus every other oil change (N20 does a job on em) and I can do all 6 in 30 mins.....

I wonder if different years/models have different amounts of room along that back wall. All I had to do is undo one clip on the distributer and I was able to get to everything just fine. I have a 96 SE, maybe the SVT is different.

Also, don't forget:
- Dielectric gel.
- Torque the spark plugs to the proper rating, being a farmer here could set you up for some problems later.
- The forum seems to be split on anti-seize, I don't use it myself (just to darn lazy) and everything works fine for me.
- Don't get dirt or other junk in those holes

I do have a question myself though, my Haynes manual says the torque rating is 84 to 180 in-lbs. That seems a bit vague to me. I used 120 and everything is holding together just fine but does anyone have a better number to use?

thanks for the input. the garage wanted 50 bucks for plugs but no wires ?1? but I think saving a few bucks is worth the effort! thanks