Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Branches Southwest A tad upset at the whole thing...

You know, no offense to pollo_locco first and foremost, but I just saw the how-to for the doors on the CEG site. I sent Lance the info over 2 years ago with my pictures and everything being I was, I guess, the first to do it. It was very simple and straight forward. Since then I've sent the stuff to him three more times and have asked him to post the How-Tos, before Crazy Chicken did his. I'm glad to see Pollo's up there but what the heck is up?! Anyways, maybe someone can help me with my own website. I have up to 50m I think with my ISP. I'd like to get them on there. Here's my stuff for anyone interested. You guys are great and Pollo I'm by far not upset at you. I'm upset at the whole thing. Thanks for letting me vent. BTW, It's because of stuff like this that I haven't been very active and for that I apologize.

Not that he has to post this either but nothing yet appears about the heat shields.

I'm sure Lance is just busy and sometimes things fall through the cracks.

Very Respectfully,
John

Door Handle Light HowTo



Tools:
Electrical tape
Shrink tubing
Hot glue gun
Soldering iron
Solder
Drill and 9/32�?� bit
Razor blade
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Multimeter

Parts:
Radio Shack PN 276-271 Green LED
18-22 guage wire




You�??ll need to begin by removing the door. I won�??t detail that as most already know how and there are other places that give the info.

Once the door is removed you need to remove the small portion of foam surrounding the upper surround of the black door handle housing. This should reveal a small pocket on the top. The thin plastic flap needs to be removed. Take a razor blade, or even a dremmel, and remove the plastic piece above the location that you�??ll be drilling the hole for the LED. Take a look at fig. 1 and you�??ll see this small flap.

Now, take the drill and drill the 9/32�?� hole for the LED. Insert the LED from the bottom so the wire ends are at the top. Take the glue gun and with one hand hold the LED in place from the bottom and glue the upper portion of the LED. If the hole is spot on you don�??t �??need�?� to glue it but it is wise to do so as it will insure that it will not go anywhere. See figure #2.

Find the wiring harness that goes to the door lock switch. There is a purple w/yellow stripe wire (driver�??s side front) that is hot (12v) only while the ignition is on. Use the multimeter to verify this. Also find the black ground wire. The passenger�??s side front hot wire is purple w/white stripe and both rear doors are solid purple. These colors may differ on your vehicle. See figure #3

You may or may not need to add wire to the LED wiring in order to extend the length to the connections on the wiring harness. The front doors will more than likely need to be extended whereas the rear doors probably will not. Take the wire and solder enough wire to both the red(12v) and black(ground) wires of the LED to make the connection on the harness. Tape up your solder joints or use shrink tubing. Strip back a small amount of insulation on the purple wire of the harness. Use the tip of your probe on the multimeter to separate the center of the copper wire. Pass the red wire from the LED through this hole enough to wrap the wire back around the purple wire. Solder the connection and tape it up. Do the same for the black (ground) wire. Make sure all connections are taped and secured. Verify operation by inserting the key into the ignition. The light should come on and off every time you turn the ignition to the run position. If everything works properly tape the run of wire from the LED to the harness as much as possible. See figure #3. This just keeps the wire from flopping around. Reinstall the door panel and proceed to the next door. The finished install should look like figure #4 w/o the handle cover on. If you are doing the rear doors you will see that the lights will come on when the lockout from the driver�??s door is shut off. Very cool. They basically come on when the switch is illuminated. See figure #5 and #6

If you have any questions feel free to contact me.

John
jcaimhigher@ixpres.com

Rant all you want buddy. I'm here for ya'

No harm no foul. I don't know why he picked mine over yours.

Well, it never got posted because you never sent the pics.

I asked for them, but they never got to me...

I looked back through my email archive, which goes back to Aug 2000. I can see your original submission, and updated submission, and my emails requesting the pictures referenced in the howto's. But no pictures. Sorry!

As far as the heatshields go, I'm not really sure where I should post that info... Sorry I've been unresponsive, I'm a little busy with work, the new house, and a lack of broadband keeps me from doing CEG stuff as much as I used to.

-Lance

No, I'm not on the wagon that he picked yours over mine. By far it seems mine would be easier and everyone has their own way. Just had to vent 'cause I have three of the Howtos. No worries.

John

Lance, I could get some pics in the future if you are still looking for some. Im getting tired of the very blue, and am thinking of trying to colormatch my head unit. I could snap some then. It probably won't be until December.

John, you may want to add (I had Colter add it to his too) that the early cars that already have the lamps don't need you to splice power from somewhere else. IIRC, none of the lights even come on until you flip that one big knob on the dash.

I guess with my newfound ability to upload, I could probably write up a pre-98 blacked out headlamp how-to.

Oh ya, I forgot. John, what exactly does that signal mod that you have do to the flashing rate? Slower or faster after your done?

It makes it faster but you can also make it slower. It's all based on the caps.

If you want help I'm here.

John