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Trying to install BAT front sway bar bushings.... just read a thread about dropping the front subframe in order to get at the bracket bolts.

Sounds easy, but does anybody know: will I have to realign the front subframe when I put it back together?

If so, how much do the alignment tools run, or is there a reasonable substitute?


'95 Contour GL, Zetec/ATX Repairs: * wheel bearings * sway bar stop * CV joint * alternator * shift interlock * heater tube * VSS * tensioner * ingition coil * wire harnesses * ball joint * Why do I still love it?
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is it me or does dropping the subframe not sound so easy.
then again, i'm mechanically DE-clined.....(if thats a word).

how difficult is that job anyway? Anyone?


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Have a look here, that gives complete instructions for removing/ installing subframe. http://www.sbcats.co.uk/techinfo/ford/sfor012e.pdf

I think just lowering it at the rear would give you enough access without removing the whole thing...


David. yr 2000 Mondeo ST24 V6 sedan Mondeo ST24 Information Site
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In reply to:

I think just lowering it at the rear would give you enough access without removing the whole thing...


Yes, I agree, but my question is, if I do that, do I have to go through the realignment process when I bolt it back up?


'95 Contour GL, Zetec/ATX Repairs: * wheel bearings * sway bar stop * CV joint * alternator * shift interlock * heater tube * VSS * tensioner * ingition coil * wire harnesses * ball joint * Why do I still love it?
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Yes. The tool shouldn't cost you much- about US$20-$30 from the prices I've seen.

The hardest thing will be buying the tools- you just have to fit them to the subframe so they guide it into the correct position and then do the bolts up.


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When I replaced my front sway bar bushing...I only loosened the subframe bolts, and pryed it down say 1 1/2 to 2". Now, according to TH, you can grind down a 13mm wrench (I think that's the size) to 1/2 the original thickness and remove those bolts w/out dropping the subframe. I just couldn't see it. Took me like 3 hours, cause you can only turn those bastard bolts like 1/12 a turn every time. But others have had better luck.

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OK, thanks ST24 for the info, ended up I couldn't get the subframe bolt out anyway. McGainer, I read that thread, and to me it sounded like dropping the subframe would be easier, but didn't know what the alignment involved, so went ahead and did some wrnech-grinding.

I ended up getting the right one off with the modified wrench, but the left one was too tight against the body. We loosened the subframe bolt but it got stuck about 3/4" out, even the impact wrench wouldn't turn it anymore. We pried the frame down but still didn't have enough clearance, so my brother somehow managed to force the new bushing into the bracket while one bracket bolt was still attached.

The sucky part was, after spending most of the weekend doing it, I still have the clunky sound that made me go in there and do the bushings to begin with.....



'95 Contour GL, Zetec/ATX Repairs: * wheel bearings * sway bar stop * CV joint * alternator * shift interlock * heater tube * VSS * tensioner * ingition coil * wire harnesses * ball joint * Why do I still love it?

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