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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2
Newbie
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OP
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2 |
What would be involved in replacing the wheelbearings in my car myself? Is it doable, or best left to a dealer or a mechanic shop? I just had the front driver's side replaced (along with a hub) for $400. Hoping to not have to pay $200 a wheel to get it done.
Thanks,
Brian
2000 Contour SVT
Bone Stock
#1432 of ????
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,631
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,631 |
I could not actually do it myself.
I've seen the whole process 3 times already on a contour... and it does help a lot to have a garage with a carlift.
But i am not saying u couldn't try... depends on ur equip and ur experience...
Anything is POSSIBLE... sowing the seeds of love"
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459 |
I'm assuming you're talking about the other front wheel bearing. Without knowing your level of experience, it's hard to say whether you should or should not do it. You have to remove the hub, which means disconnecting the hub from the ball-joint, tie-rod end, strut, brakes, etc. If you get past this part, the next step is removing the bearing from the hub. A hydraulic press makes the bearing removal a lot easier, but it is possible to drive the bearing in and out, without using a press.
The hardest part is putting the hub back on to the strut and ball-joint. A search through the archives on this site should turn up some more discussions on this.
I would suggest getting a Haynes manual (10-15$). The manual gives a good idea (with pictures) of what is involved.
If you are considering the rear bearings, it's a different story. I believe the bearings and hubs are sold as a unit, so replacing the bearings just remains replacing the entire unit. It's a much easier job.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,319
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2002
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Wheel bearings usually replaced when faulty (noisey or excessive play) not as a pre-emptive measure. Front should be about 2 hours labor + parts. Rears should be less labor, maybe an hour.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459 |
Originally posted by bentleywarren:
You have to remove the hub, which means disconnecting the hub from the ball-joint, tie-rod end, strut, brakes, etc. If you get past this part, the next step is removing the bearing from the hub. A hydraulic press makes the bearing removal a lot easier, but it is possible to drive the bearing in and out, without using a press.
The hardest part is putting the hub back on to the strut and ball-joint.
EDIT: I mistakenly used the word hub to describe both the knuckle and hub. I believe the part that connects to the strut, ball-joint, etc should be referred to as a knuckle, and not as a hub. The knuckle and the hub are two parts, and not one, as I implied earlier. My mistake. EDIT
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 263
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 263 |
Rears hub/bearings are very easy to do! An hour or less at the shop.
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1996SE sports package, Duratec MTX No mods yet.
80K Kilometers.
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Wife has 1996GL Zetec ATX.
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