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#48901 12/01/01 05:57 PM
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the serpintine belt, does a motor mount need to be pulled to change it out??

i got one shop quoting 118, the other 59. the one for 59 says it could need a motor mount pull to get to it. the 118 sys they dont know its a flat rate but they could do the servive anyways.

umm, yeah right im paying twice the amount.

#48902 12/01/01 06:02 PM
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Pull the front passenger (right) wheel.
Remove the 2 piece splash shield.
Put a belt tensioner tool on the tensioner. (There was NO way I could fit a ratchet on mine - some have IIRC)
Loosening the belt and remove it.
Reverse steps to install.

{edit - Any Duratec owners look above - :rolleyes: laugh }

...and you have $118 in your pocket minus maybe $20 for a Premium belt. DO NOT BE CHEAP and get the generic belt. This is changed so rarely the extra $5-10 is more than worth it...


2000 SVT #674 - Check it out!

Whoever coined the phrase; "If it ain't broke; don't fix it" ~ Just doesn't get it...
#48903 12/01/01 06:14 PM
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i forgot to mention, zetec with auto and a\c.

thanks to above poster for help.

#48904 12/01/01 06:18 PM
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According to the Haynes manual: no. You simply release the tensioner; on Zetec, use a 13mm socket to rotate it away from the belt; on Duratec, use the end of a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar to rotate it clockwise. The pictures get a little vague after that; I assume once you slip the belt off the crank pulley, then you have to wriggle the belt off the tensioner pulley or else unbolt the tensioner. Whoever told you the motor mount had to be pulled for a DRIVEBELT replacement is full of *bleep*. TIMING belt on a Zetec, yes. And if they're willing to do THAT for $59, take advantage of them. wink On the other hand... they can't be very good if they sell out that cheaply. :p


Black/tan early '98 Contour SE Sport; V6, MTX, loaded
Kenwood KDC 316S CD deck; aux. dome light mod; trunk popper spring; resonator bypass; hood strut mod; SVT grille; Continental tires
Mom also has black/tan '98 Mystique LS; V6, ATX, Alpine CD deck
#48905 12/01/01 06:42 PM
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WOW! it makes me so HOT to see a woman (April Thompson) talk like that!

Where are you, and will you please be my girlfriend?


"I wish my CONTOUR had twin turbos"
#48906 12/01/01 06:51 PM
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thanks again, i just got off the phone with another shop. im lucky today. the one who did my water pump and serp is right next to my g\f work so shell be taking it in. this one is 63 bucks and i know they have everything neccessary to do it.

the one for 59 cant pull a wheel.

why couldnt it hold out to 60k? its only 15k old. i think i got a bad belt. theres no shaking or anything. ill worry about the whole thing at 60k where ill probably spend about 1k to do everything neccessary and unneccessary items.

lucky so far 53 k on the clock, wp went at 38 now its a bad belt at 53. the water pump warped so the prop was still intact lucky me.

i tell ya reading this board sometimes scares the crap out of me. this is definately the last and only ford for us.

#48907 12/01/01 06:53 PM
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thats nice no reply(as if its needed now) but someone looking for a date.

shame on you

#48908 12/01/01 07:16 PM
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Pulling the upper motor mount on the left side of the engine (as you stand in front of the car w/ the hood open) certainly makes it easier to get that belt back on. The way I did it was have one person pulling the tensioner back and another fighting w/ the belt to get it over the A/C pulley. The second person reached down to get to the A/C pulley, and having that mount out of the way made it easier to get to.

What makes you think the belt is bad? Just some squeeking? Could be the idler pulley...

#48909 12/01/01 07:25 PM
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a fray (frey) on the belt. plus i think there are tiny cracks on it. but definately a frey. about half an inch. only one though. im not taking any chances. its getting fixed right now as we speak.

thanks

#48910 12/01/01 07:53 PM
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crack addict he told me 63, for both labor and part. girl just paid 120, oh well its fixed now. definately my last time at that place. thanks to all for help.

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