Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting 180 foot/pounds of torque for rear wheel

Sounds like my rear driver side wheel bearing is shot. Been that way for some time now.

Rear bearing is replaced as part of the wheel hub. It looks like a straight forward replacement. I dunno how hard it is to replace.

The torque spec is 180 ft/lbs. Will I be able to physically do this with a standard torque wrench or is it a geared down tool that is required.

Thanks.

If you weigh more than say 140lbs it shouldn't be a problem. The torque wrench is likely about 18"-24" long, do the math and you will see that it is easilt attainable.

A torque multiplier should not be necessary.

I weight 210 lb so I am looking good. Thanks.

If anybody else ever did their rear whell hub let me know.
Thanks.

Originally posted by jborge:

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I weight 210 lb so I am looking good. Thanks.

If anybody else ever did their rear whell hub let me know.
Thanks.

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For rear disk brake cars, it's pretty easy. I got a loaner puller tool from AZ, but really didn't need it because the hubs are just slightly snug on the axle once you remove the nut. Break the hub nuts loose before jacking up the car. Do the final torque tightening after the wheels are back on the ground. I think theres more stuff to remove for drum brakes.

Originally posted by jborge:

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Sounds like my rear driver side wheel bearing is shot. Been that way for some time now.

Rear bearing is replaced as part of the wheel hub. It looks like a straight forward replacement. I dunno how hard it is to replace.

The torque spec is 180 ft/lbs. Will I be able to physically do this with a standard torque wrench or is it a geared down tool that is required.

Thanks.

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As you responded to my other post, I also think my driver's side rear bearing is going bad. I noticed a constant hum from the back a couple of months ago that is more pronounced as you go faster. At first I thought it was the tires, but it does not change with types of pavement; it is as constant as the North Star.

I have been quoted as high as $300.00 a side to have them changed. I figured I would do both as long as I am at it. So, I am assuming you pull the rotor off, losen the hub bolt, pull the hub and replace, but the rotor back on and you are in business. Sound correct????? Of course a hub puller would come in handy.

$300 a side is crazy for the rears. It's a 15-20 minute job!! (Fronts are totally different...)

In reply to:

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I have been quoted as high as $300.00 a side to have them changed. I figured I would do both as long as I am at it. So, I am assuming you pull the rotor off, losen the hub bolt, pull the hub and replace, but the rotor back on and you are in business. Sound correct????? Of course a hub puller would come in handy.

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This is basically correct, although it's easier/safer to loosen the hub nut first. A firm tug or a few taps with a mallet should be enough to pull the hub.

On a side note. Anyone know the size of the hub bolt???

IIRC, it's 32mm.

You can get the wheelhub at www.carparts.com.

Part number 512024 for $54 bucks.

You will need a new hub nut as well as once you back it off, you have to replace it.

You should be able to tell which one it is. I folded down one of the split seats and had somebody listen back there while I drove around.

You hear the sound after about 30 miles/hour then it gets louder. It goes away when I swing to the left on a road but comes back when i drive straight or to the right.

If you private mail me with your email I will email you some drawings and procedures.

Labour for 1 side I would estimate is 1 hour, for both sides 1 and a half tops.